THE SEARCH FOR
GUOLIANG
Story written
by Rick Archer
October, 2009
CONFUSION
ON THE INTERNET
How would you feel if you realized you had directly misled
the entire world as to the location of the Pyramids?
My mistake wasn't quite that serious, but I take
responsibility for accidentally hiding one of China's
emerging tourist attractions from the entire world.
In Part One of our story,
I wrote that I received an upsetting note
from a Korean man named Suhan. This lady correctly pointed
out I had badly misplaced the true location Guoliang.
I was grateful that this kind lady was willing to take the time to
steer me in the right direction, but I was at the same time
I was deeply embarrassed
at my mistake.
Immediately after receiving this note (October 2009), I went back to the Internet to double-check the
location of Guoliangcun. The first thing I
discovered is that
there is still a lot of confusion on the Internet about this
place and other exotic locations such as China's
Huashan (a favorite
topic of mine).
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For example, I
noticed one website placed China's Mt Huashan over in Tibet.
Look for
yourself. Directly below the
picture of Mt Huashan you will see
"The
most dangerous tourist route in the world is located in
Tibet."
That made me
feel a little better. At least I got the country right when
I made my mistake on Guoliang Village. As for the
Tibet nonsense, fortunately there were many comments listed directly below
the picture that corrected that website's mistake
immediately.
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Anonymous said...
These pictures are not in Tibet! This is Huashan
near Xian. Thousands of people have climbed these
mountains and only a few sections involve chains and
footholds (other routes avoid these). There is no
significant danger here - it is all in the mind. You
should give it a go, it is charcter building.
5:46 PM
Evandazzle said...
No that isn't Tibet! That is Hua Mountain in Shaanxi
China!I had been there!
10:17 PM
Scott said...
I have frequent dreams of being stuck on a mountain
path almost exactly like this one. Needless to say, they
are not pleasant dreams.
I am glad that this trail is available for people who
want to climb it. But, have to be completely insane to
do it.
Sorry. It's just the truth.
11:58 PM
Michael said...
Awesome pictures, have always loved to participate
in these adventurous tours but my wife wont let me into
this. Anyways the temptation is too good to resist and I
will definitely figure out ways to escape her and join
in one such expedition. The conventional travel where we
relax on a Holiday home is so boring for me its time for
some real action.
7:14 AM
Linda said...
I'm training for this wonderful trail and plan to be
playing chess on the East Peak within five years.
Not that hard. Just don't mess up.
7:16 PM
Anonymous said...
It's Yellow Mountain in China, just near my
hometown. I've been there quite a lot of times. It's
really amazing!
2:02 AM
Darren Crawford said...
This climb is known as the most dangerous tourist
route in the world, its on Mt Huashan located just
outside of Xian in China (NOT Tibet!).
I did this in May 2008.
My Blog
I have also been along the most dangerous road in China
known as Precipice Long Corridor. This is located in
Guoliangcun. I also did this in May 2008.
My blog
Finally I have also cycled the most dangerous road in
the world known as the Yungas Road located in Bolivia. I
did this in August 2008.
My blog
None of these places exist in Tibet!
Hope this settles any confusion.
(Rick Archer's
Note:
Did you
noticed Mr. Crawford hit a trifecta of sorts?
Apparently Darren Crawford has visited all three of the
locations I wrote about in my original
Danger story back in January
2007 (Bolivia, Guoliang, Huashan). Not only am I impressed, I am envious!)
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SERIOUS INTERNET
CONFUSION REGARDING THE LOCATION OF GUOLIANG
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I Lost It, Now
I Better Find It!
My own mistake
was not quite as serious as placing Huashan a thousand miles
away in Tibet. After all, Hunan Province and Henan
Province are only about 200 miles apart.
Nevertheless,
I was still upset to discover that
I had PERSONALLY contributed to world-wide confusion over the exact
location of Guoliang Village.
You probably
think I exaggerate the importance of my mistake.
In truth, I
honestly believe I was the MAIN REASON that the correct
location of Guoliang had literally disappeared off the face
of the Internet!
As you read this story, you will
see that I write a compelling argument to support my
suggestion that I was the single person most responsible for
losing Guoliang to countless Internet users FOR TWO AND A
HALF YEARS!
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A Review of the
Mistake that Started The Search
From:
Suhan
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 1:18 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Regarding the Guoliang Tunnel
Hello Mr. Archer,
I've read your site with great interest as I
wanted to travel to Mt. HuaShan. It's
definitely a great mountain, and after my
travels, I can attest that it's not as
dangerous as your main article suggests. But
I'm sure you've already received a lot of
correspondence regarding the mountain.
I'm actually emailing you about some
inconsistencies regarding your article about
Guoliang Tunnel.
I'm a Korean studying Mandarin in Beijing,
and was looking for other sites to travel to
in China.
Of course, I wanted to check out
Guoliang tunnel, but wasn't able to find it.
It
turns out that the
tunnel is actually in Henan Province,
which is a different province from Hunan (??) as
mentioned in your article. Hunan is more famous for
being the province that Mao Zedong was born in.
Also, your
map that shows the location of Guoliangcun
is totally wrong too.
You actually marked
the star some place in the Hebei province,
though the location of Huashan is correct. I
know this won't be a high priority for you,
but it would be great if you took the time
to correct these inaccuracies when possible.
It would be so
kind if you could identify the exact location on a map.
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On Tuesday, October 13, 2009, the day after I received Suhan's letter, I decided
the responsible thing to do was find the
correct location and correct my mistake.
The first thing I did was to review my original 2007 article.
That is when I realized I had inadvertently copied someone else's
mistake.
The Mistake
That Started It All
#11 12-24-2006, 05:57 AM Longstreets
Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Alberta,Canada
"WooHoo
!.................mystery solved!
The mystery pictures of the Yungas Road
in Bolivia were actually
from the
Guoliang Tunnel Road in
Hunan Province, China."
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Okay, so I made a mistake. How hard can it be to fix it?
I will locate Guoliang and fix my map. How long will that
take, 5 minutes?
Guess what? I expected the search to take 5 minutes.
It took me five days!
I kid you not. It took me three consecutive afternoons to
track down the real Guoliang and two more to write this 2009 story.
Step One - Back to
Google
I began my search
for Guoliang by returning to my friend,
the Google Search Engine.
I typed "Guoliang" into Google. Not
surprisingly, I got all sorts of
hits. I noticed my own web site was listed first.
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SSQQ WEBSITE
IS THE FIRST HIT ON GOOGLE FOR GUOLIANG
There is a
simple reason that Google posts my site first.
Back in
January 2007, I posted the very first web page to thoroughly
document the story of the Guoliangcun Tunnel. This
meant anyone who typed "Guoliang" into Google
came to my page first. The advantage of being the first to
publish is that Google keeps directing people to the page
which in turn guarantees it remains first.
It's the old story of being popular because you are popular.
Everyone assumes you must be popular for a reason, so they
treat you like you are popular. That means you stay
popular.
What I didn't bargain on was that this odd phenomenon would
make me the worldwide authority on Guoliang.
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As I
clicked my way down the first and second page of Guoliang listings,
I noticed I wasn't the only one who got the location wrong. Lots of websites
had Guoliang listed in Hunan Province instead of
Henan Province. In fact, I saw so many websites
agreeing with my Hunan location that for a moment I began to wonder if I
was right and the Korean lady was wrong.
Then I noticed something... there was something very odd about every
single web site that agreed with me. They all had the same
pictures as my web site. As I looked closer, I realized
they had the same words too! That's when I realized that every single one of these
websites had copied their material from my website.
Thanks to
me, each one of these websites had Guoliang situated in
Hunan, not Henan!
I counted a dozen different websites that all incorrectly had
Guoliang placed in the Hunan Province! At that point, I
stopped looking. I was disgusted to see my own mistake had
been magnified many times over.
As it stood,
for the past two and a
half years, the
people who had visited my site assumed I knew what I was talking about.
I had just proven one of my favorite proverbs:
"A
computer can allow you to make as many
mistakes in two seconds as 20 men working for 20 years."
I hope you see the humor in this... I have never visited the place, I
didn't take any of the pictures I posted, and everything I wrote was
borrowed from
something else I had read on the Internet. In other words, I
contributed absolutely nothing original of my own whatsoever.
I was simply a parrot echoing the words of other writers.
Yet
now I was the worldwide authority. No satisfaction in that
honor, especially when I didn't even know where the place is!
This situation bordered on the ludicrous. It would have been
funny except that I had misled the entire world as to the location.
My error in placing Guoliang
in the wrong Chinese province had been inadvertently multiplied many
times over. Thanks to me, the entire Internet was having fits
locating this place! In fact, no one even seemed to realized
it had been misplaced. Had it not been for Suhan's innocent
note, I would have never even known my own mistake.
I was responsible for promulgating a stupid mistake across the
entire planet! As you will soon read, many people who
followed in my footsteps made things even worse. I was unable
to find a SINGLE INTERNET WEB PAGE that had the correct location.
The entire Internet couldn't find Guoliang!
I was embarrassed to see my mistake operating like an Internet
virus. Oddly enough, I recalled the Canadian airline
attendant who was widely credited with spreading the AIDS virus all
over North America back in Seventies. Then I remembered the
poor kid in Vera Cruz, Mexico, who was credited with starting the Swine Flu in
2008. Being Patient Zero isn't much fun.
Actually I wasn't the true Patient Zero. I didn't make
the original mistake on Guoliang. I had copied someone else's mistake
without bothering to double-check. That said, I was
definitely guilty of spreading the mistake far and wide. My
frequently-read story was clearly the major origin of the Internet confusion.
Suhan herself wrote me because she couldn't even find
Guoliang. That's pretty sad; she lives in China! She
asked me, a man who lives in Texas, to help her find the exact
location. My guilt prompted me to do a better job.
So on October 13,
2009, I began the search for the correct location of Guoliang.
It was unsettling to see how many people copied my original mistake,
but at least I could understand that. As I dug deeper, what I
found bizarre was that other people who came after me badly
misplaced the true location as well.
Why was the true
location Guoliang so difficult to find?
ABOUT GUOLIANG AND THE HENAN PROVINCE OF CHINA
Henan is China's most important
province historically. It sits in the east of the country in
the central plains region and has the Yellow River running
through it, along with sacred mountains and the Shaolin
Temple.
Henan is the ancient economic, political and cultural center
of China. Henan is the crux of
China's long-running civilization, being home to scores of
emperors over successive dynasties and featuring some of the
most revered temples in the country. Of its many national
parks and scenic areas, Song Shan National Park and the
Yellow River are two of the most visited.
The province of Henan is loaded
with historical cities, most of which reside in the center
of the region. Zhengzhou is the capital and main hub. It is
the main rail terminus in China and is just over an hour
away from Beijing by plane. Other popular cities are nearby
Kaifeng and Luoyang, and Anyang toward the north.
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The town of Luoyang is a couple of hours by train or
expressway from Zhengzhou. It is home to the UNESCO Longmen
grottoes and the Ancient Han Tombs Museum and comes with
traffic-free streets and a nice look. Laidback Kaifeng is in
the other direction from Luoyang. It is an hour to the east
of Zhengzhou by expressway and also lies on the Yellow
River.
One of the most revered places in China is Song Shan (Mount
Song). It is between and slightly south of the cities of
Zhengzhou and Luoyang are high mountains, Song Shan National
Park, and the vaunted Shaolin Temple. There are stupas
galore here along with monks practicing kung fu.
Gongyi City is also in this general region of Henan and is
known for the Imperial Tombs of Northern Song Dynasty. It
makes a good daytrip from either Zhengzhou or Luoyang and
boasts the restored Yongzhao Tomb.
Heading north of the Zhengzhou area is the small village of
Guoliangcun amid the stunning Taihang Mountains. It has one
of the nicest settings of any inhabited region of China with
superb hiking and climbing options. The hairy road through
the mountains is reason enough for a visit.
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THE
SEARCH FOR GUOLIANG BEGINS
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FORWARD
Rick
Archer
October 2009
You are about
to read a very strange story. It turns out that our
friend Suhan couldn't find Guoliang for a reason - the place
is virtually impossible to find even using a powerful tool
like the Internet! You will have to read the
story to see what I mean.
As of 2009, if you type
"Guoliangcun" into Google, there are over 2,000 hits listed.
If you type in "Guoliang", there are 200,000 hits.
Included in these two lists are dozens of blogs and
countless pictures that attest to the existence of this
little village.
However, after
three days of searching in October 2009, I never found a
single map or a set of accurate coordinates for Guoliang on
the Internet.
I am telling
the truth. Nor am I exaggerating. As you will
see, I documented the entire search in a way that allows
anyone to retrace my steps.
That said, you
shouldn't worry about finding Guoliang if you want to visit.
Just go to Xinxiang or Huixian City in Henan Province and tell someone you
want to go visit Guoliang. There is not only a bus
that goes there, there are plenty of taxi drivers who can
find it as well. Considering all the sites on the
Internet created by people who have visited Guoliang Village,
obviously plenty of people have been able to find their way once they made it to China.
The true
location of Guoliang (aka Guoliangcun) is a mystery only to
people like me with no access to detailed maps of China. I am
sure this data exists on the Internet somewhere, but I couldn't
find them.
I have written
this story for people like me who don't live anywhere near
China (there are currently about 5 billion in that
category) who would like to know the exact location of
Guoliang.
For example, I live in Houston, Texas, USA.
I am an "Internet Tourist". The Internet is full of people just like me who fulfill many of their travel fantasies by seeing pictures
and reading stories about far-flung locations by surfing the
Net. My hobby explains the origin of my own 2007 story about
Guoliang. I heard about a strange place and was
curious enough to learn more about it using the Net. I
already had the pictures in an email. Once I realized
how little was known about Guoliang, I copied material from
a half-dozen blogs and combined it to create an article story about
Guoliang. This was a place virtually no one had ever heard of.
At the time, my article about Guoliang helped
generate a lot of interest. I thought I was doing the
place a favor. I never realized I had misplaced it!
Of course, the one question everyone asks is "Where in the world
is it?" When it comes to Guoliang, I have to be
honest. This is the craziest place to find I have ever
experienced in my life! You will just have to read the
story to understand.
GOOGLE EARTH
Before we
proceed, I have a suggestion. If you don't have
"Google Earth" on your computer, then get it NOW.
This amazing service is absolutely free! You
will have the world at your fingertips. No Internet
Tourist is complete without it.
All you have
to do to acquire this program is type "Google Earth" into
Google and follow the instructions. The program
downloads quickly and suddenly the whole world is just a few
clicks away.
Once the
Google Earth program is installed, you will swear it is something out of
science fiction! The stated goal of the program is to
let users "point and zoom to any place on the planet that
a person wants to explore".
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Using satellite imaging, you can
go see everything from your own house to the Eiffel Tower, the Pyramids of
Egypt, the French Riviera, Dubai's "World", Mount Everest,
the Grand Canyon, and Jerusalem. Google Earth allows
you to check out any place in the
world that you have ever been curious about.
PANORAMIO
PICTURES
One of the
unique features about Google Earth is the growing inclusion
of photographs posted on Google Earth via Panoramio.
This feature allows people who have actually visited some of
these far-flung places to post
snapshots they took of the unique locations.
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All you have to do is
look for the blue boxes and click. Suddenly you get
first-hand pictures taken by people who have actually
visited the place you are interested in.
Each one of those blue boxes represents a picture.
For example, this
picture of a nature preserve at Guoliangcun was taken by a
visitor and posted on Google Earth.
Click on any
blue dot and a picture comes up to look at. It is a
wonderful game to visit a spot and see what it looks like.
(By the way, if you find the pictures annoying, you can also turn them off).
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Unfortunately,
there is a real game to finding these blue box pictures.
You have to know where the place is ahead of time to see the
pictures. "Close" may count in horseshoes and slow
dancing, but you have to be right on the money to find these
blue box pictures.
Let me see if
I can explain. In the "Furthest Away" position on
Google Earth, it usually takes a dozen clicks to zoom in
close enough for the blue boxes to suddenly appear out of
nowhere. By the way, if you haven't downloaded Google
Earth yet, go get it! This entire article will
be three times more fun if you follow my story on Google
Earth. You will be able to go see those blue dots
yourself. If you have access to the Internet, you have
access to Google Earth.
Normally the blue boxes are invisible unless you are at a
very close distance.
In order to find these pictures by luck, you have to move
around a general area, take a guess, then carefully zoom
in. Once you hit the exact resolution, out of nowhere,
the boxes appear as if by magic.
During my search for Guoliang, I can't tell you how
many times I zoomed in and out of the Taihang Mountains in China looking for the darn
place.
However, the
neat part of the search is I found myself learning about
areas of China that I never knew existed. Although I
was always frustrated by my mistakes in locating the elusive
Guoliang, I loved roaming around "virtual China" thanks to
this remarkable tool.
If you really
want to enjoy the Search for Guoliang story, I hope you will go download Google Earth. I
predict you will have a ball trying to find Guoliang just
like I did! Here. I am going to make it
easy for you. Google Earth
Now go get it!
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(Note:
I found this picture by accident as I roamed around China
looking
for Guoliang. I clicked a blue dot and look what popped
up!
China has all kinds of cool things to see!) |
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FINDING GUOLIANG ISN'T
EASY,
First Try - Wrong
Guoliang #1
For my search, I had three tools - Google, Google Map and Google Earth.
I was feeling lucky. So
I tried typing "Guoliang coordinates" into Google.
So much for feeling lucky. Nothing came up.
After some digging around on Google,
I did accidentally run across a site that listed the coordinates as part
of a photograph. I plugged
the coordinates into Google Earth. Although I was directed to
China, I found absolutely nothing to indicate I was in the right
place.
This was just the first dead end in a whole series of blind alleys. Oddly enough,
one day later, I tried finding this picture again without success.
When it was all over, I had spent three entire days looking for
Guoliang!
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For my second
move, I tried using the search engine for Google Maps.
Nothing came up.
As
you can see for yourself, I struck out on both Guoliangcun
and Guoliang as well.
Please note I was in the map for Henan Province, but to no
avail.
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For my third move, I started poking around some Internet travel websites that
specialized in China. Many of the sites came up empty when I
typed in "Guoliang", but one travel website with the name
Gecko had a list of
500 places to visit... and Guoliang was one of them. Not only that, it
had a map!
So I clicked the link to Guoliang.
Unfortunately, every time I clicked, the map directed me to some spot
south of
Zhengzhou, the capital of Henan Province. That orange
"1" is supposed to indicate where Guoliang is. Do you see
something that says "Guoliang" in those maps? No, me neither.
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I was really confused. I had read a Guoliang blog which stated this:
"I'm actually
writing this from a town called
Xinxiang
which is the closest train
station to Guoliang..."
Looking at the fourth
map above, you can see that Xinxiang is NORTH of Zhengzhou, not South. Something was
wrong here. I decided this map could not be trusted for an
accurate location of Guoliang.
Next I found a description of how to get to Guoliang in a book on "China"
by Damien Harper on
Google Books.
Getting
to Guoliangcun (China
- Damien Harper)
It takes three buses from Zhengzhou,
followed by a connecting bus to Xinxiang, and then a local bus
to the base of the cliffs to Guoliangcun. Follow the directions
from LPG or any other guide book for specifics
Getting there & away
You can reach Guoliàngcun from
Xinxiang,
between Anyáng and Zhèngzhou. Regular trains run to Xinxiang
from Anyáng (Y14, 1½ hours) or Zhèngzhou (Y13, one hour); buses
also link Xinxiang with Zhèngzhou (Y24, one hour, every 25
minutes). Exit the Xinxiang train station and take a motor-tricyle
(Y2) to the bus stop 1km away for buses to Huixiàn (Y4, 45
minutes, regular).
Ask the driver to drop you at the Huixiàn
stop for buses to Guoliàngcun (Y10, 2½ hours, depart 8am and
1pm). Note that buses from Huixiàn may have the characters for
Guoliàng on the window, but may (depending on passenger number)
only stop at Nánpíng, a village at the base of the road to Guoliàngcun. From Nánpíng it is a steep 3km walk to Guoliàngcun
up the mountain road, otherwise taxis or local drivers are prone
to fleecing (Y40) for the steep haul into the village,
especially if travelers are scarce. In the other direction,
Huixiàn-bound minibuses (Y10) depart from the bottom of the
mountain road from Guoliàngcun at 9am, noon and 3pm.
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After studying this description and giving it much thought, I
decided I still didn't have a strong idea where to find the place
without a map. Guoliang had to be somewhere around Xinxiang.
I could find maps with Xinxiang on it. Okay, that's a start, but I still couldn't find a single map that showed
exactly where Guoliang was located.
Then I noticed another description:
Nestled away on its cliff-top perch high up
in the Wanxian
(Ten Thousand Immortals)
Mountains in north Hénán is this delightful high-altitude
stone hamlet. For centuries sheltered from the outside world by
a combination of sheer inaccessibility and anonymity,
Guoliàngcun shot to fame as the bucolic backdrop to a clutch of
Chinese films, which firmly embedded the village in contemporary
Chinese mythology.
FINDING GUOLIANG ISN'T
EASY,
Second Try - Wrong
Guoliang #2
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I decided to
explore the Wanxian Mountains. So I went back
to Google Earth. Back in 2007 when I first wrote the
story, I did not know about Google Earth. As you can
see, since then, Google Earth and I have become good friends.
I typed in "Guoliang" and "Wanxian Mountains". I
immediately came up with a hit!
However, I saw
several problems. One, the area didn't look mountainous.
Two, the location appeared to be in the Shaanxi Province.
Three, the location appeared to be about 300 miles from
Zhengzhou.
Another false
alarm.
Back to the
drawing board.
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I was getting
frustrated. As I studied the map, I decided the
Chinese weren't helping very much.
In addition to my
original Hunan-Henan mistake, my problems with Shaanxi
Province (see previous picture) made me notice there was
another Province named "Shanxi".
Shaanxi-Shanxi. Hmm.
A closer look
revealed Hebei Province and Hubei Province.
There
certainly were a lot of similar names in Chinese geography!
That's when it
dawned on me. Maybe "Guoliang" was a fairly
common name in China.
That might explain why I kept getting hits on Guoliang that
kept taking me to the wrong places.
I searched the
Internet for a detailed map of Chinese cities. Other
than Google Maps which had already turned up empty, I had
no luck.
A few Internet
maps of China listed the major cities, but that was about
it. Finding a map listing the Villages was out of the question.
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FINDING GUOLIANG ISN'T
EASY,
Third Try - Wrong
Guoliang #3
I decided that
Google Earth gave me my best chance, so I went back to it.
I tried simply
typing in "Guoliang, Henan". To my surprise, I
got an immediate hit (see picture). The problem was,
this location was south of Zhengzhou. After
studying the location, I determined this might be the
same spot the Gecko Chinese Travel Site kept taking me
to on my "First Try".
Good thing
this wasn't baseball. Three strikes and you're out,
yes?
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FINDING
GUOLIANG ISN'T EASY,
Fourth Try
- I Discover a Parallel Universe!
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I took another
look at the riddle. An Internet site known as
The Lonely Planet insisted that after Xinxiang, the bus
would take a people to some town named "Huixian".
"Exit the Xinxiang train
station and take a motor-tricyle
(Y2) to the bus stop 1km away for buses to Huixiàn (Y4, 45
minutes, regular). Ask the driver to drop you at the Huixiàn
stop for buses to Guoliàngcun (Y10, 2½
hours, depart 8am and 1pm)."
I typed "Huixian"
into Google Earth and was directed to a new spot for my
troubles. (see picture). That cheered me up.
I felt like I was getting closer! Then I noticed
the directions said that Guoliangcun was still 2 1/2
hours away by bus. So near, yet so far. Then I
noticed a curious blue picture box (see picture). When I
clicked the box, a picture appeared. Hmm. I
began to wonder if I could find Guoliang by looking at the
pictures. So my
new strategy was to wander around nearby Huixian and click the
blue picture boxes on Google Earth. This strategy
immediately paid off
with dividends. I discovered a real nugget!
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A little
further to the west from Huixian, I clicked on a blue
box which revealed the picture on the right. Now you tell
me - is that Guoliang or not? Of course it
is!!! There are windows and a rubble pile and everything.
Using Google
Earth, I poked around the area for further blue picture
boxes of Guoliang or the name of the village.
Nothing came up but some place named "Xiyagou."
Xiyagou?
The more I
studied that picture, the more confused I got. To be
honest, I had not seen a "Guoliang picture" that matched
this new picture. That winding road was new. Was it possible that another
community named Xiyagou had done the same thing and carved a
tunnel out the mountain?
I don't like
coincidences. Wherever Guoliang was, it had to be
nearby.
So I typed "Xiyagou"
into Google. I was NOT HAPPY with the results.
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As you can see
for yourself, there is indeed a parallel universe here.
These pictures confirmed that I had accidentally stumbled
upon another village in the same mountain region that had carved
tunnels out of cliffs just like Guoliang. Since
Xiyagou started in the Sixties, I suppose this is where
Guoliang got the idea to try the same thing in the
Seventies.
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Good grief! I was getting
pretty discouraged. I was finding everything but the
place I was looking for!
One
thing that bothered me greatly was the possibility that
Guoliang and Xiyagou were the same place. After all,
the pictures of the tunnels sure looked similar and the
location was definitely in the same general area where
Guoliang was said to be. What was going here?
Then I noticed that Xiyagou was listed as being in the
Shanxi Province
NEXT to Henan Province. I decided that I had
simply uncovered an amazing coincidence between two villages
that no one else to my knowledge had pointed out on the
Internet. I decided to keep looking.
Rick Archer's
Note: As of 2009, very little information currently exists on Internet regarding Xiyagou. Here is all that I found:
This is a picture of
a road excavated in the cliff of Taihang Mountain in
Pingshun county, Shanxi province, September 2, 2009.
This 1,500-meter (0.93 mile) road took 200 families 30
years to complete and has facilitated movement between
Xiyagou village and other villages of the Pingshun
county, which has often been obstructed by this mountain
range, local media reported.
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FINDING
GUOLIANG ISN'T EASY,
Fifth Try -
Wrong Guoliang #4
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As I read
various stories about Guoliang, I noticed most of the
bloggers referred to the place as "Guoliangcun". On a
whim, I decided to type Guoliangcun, China
into Google Earth. Nothing happened. Google
Earth didn't budge. So I added "Henan"
into the mix. Boom! I got an instant hit!
Google Earth rotated swiftly to a town named "Guoliangcun"
(see picture). Surely this was it!
There was only problem... I could not find a single blue
"picture" box nearby this spot. In other words, not a
single picture existed to indicate I was in the right place.
No matter how many times I zoomed in and out, no Google
Earth pictures emerged to suggest I was in the right place.
For that matter, no Google Earth images appeared at all.
This could not be the right place. And yet the
blue and red place markers suggested that
someone had clearly marked this spot as special. I
recalled finding some coordinates on a web site that said he
had MARKED Guoliangcun on Google Earth.
Maybe this was
the place he was referring to. Unfortunately, I think he had
the wrong spot. There was literally nothing there.
This
was driving me crazy!! This had turned into a
serious "Where in the World is Carmen San Diego?" quest.
Where is the real Guoliang Village? And how could I
find it?
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I had just hit
a dead end. I had found four different "Guoliangs".
All four had turned out to be the wrong place.
I had found a
village named Xiyagou that was a near clone of Guoliang and
in the same vicinity to boot, but that hadn't panned out
either.
What was my
next move? I noticed there was a sponsored link
to Henan, China at Trip Advisor. Why not?
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The Trip
Advisor link did not reveal the true location of the
Guoliang Tunnels. However it did suggest a new place
to explore.
I clicked on
the link which directed me to
The Hidden Village of Guoliang, a marvelous story
written by a man named Ernie. I have added excerpts of
his story, but to get the full effect, you need to read the
whole story at "China Expat" and see the wonderful pictures
of Guoliang included in the story.
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The Hidden Village of Guoliang
Written
by ErnieIn the heart of Henan's Taihang
Mountains lies forgotten Guoliang Cun. Not entirely
forgotten, of course, in China a "forgotten" destination can
officially mean fewer than ten thousand visitors per day.
But far fewer than that disturb this marvelous relic of
rough-hewn splendor, and the place truly was forgotten long
enough that the term applies more to Guoliang Cun than to
most any other Chinese habitation.
Yet the key feature of Guolian Cun is its inaccessibility.
It sits at a high but by no means vertiginous 1752 meters.
Some eighty families comprising 300 odd people give it life.
The clue to the hidden nature of Guoliang lies in the fact
that almost everyone there shares the surname Shen.
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In the Yuan Dynasty, the Shen family were powerful
officials in Nanjing. But by the beginning of the Ming
Dynasty, the Shen's glory had run its course. Emperor
Zhuyuanzhang exiled the entire clan to Qinghai, to do hard
labor as punishment for some crime real or imagined, but
certainly lost to the ages. Somehow, most of the family
managed to escape while under guard in Shanxi.
Realizing their odds of getting away were greater in small
groups, they shattered a giant brass wok, the pieces to
serve as symbols of kinship should they or their progeny
ever manage to reunite. Thus did the small band and original
stock of today's Guoliang Cun intentionally take the most
tortuous, untraceable route they could find, stopping only
when they stumbled into an all but impenetrable valley. Here
they consigned themselves to a world entirely apart from the
rest of China. By the 1960s, only one Shen had left, to join
the army. The rest, never. The fact that less than ten
percent of Guoliang has more than ten fingers throws some
doubt on the claim, but a romantic story is a romantic
story. And hey, the place is hard to reach, even by China
countryside standards.
The surest proof of that is the way in, a marvel of manual
engineering. A path carved into the side of the valley's
east cliff face, a three sided tunnel that would stagger
today's average construction firm, is the final stage of the
bumpy mountain journey to Guoliang Cun. Actually, there was
another way in before, one that scarcely justified being
called a path, a goat trail of perilous drops and ninety
degree ascents that guaranteed no one left Guoliang valley
or went in unless under direst need. That same "path" today
is a draw for a breed of deranged hikers who call a scamper
up Hua Shan a "fun day's outing".
Not until 1972 did the residents of Guoliang Cun have either
the desire or the money to round up a bunch of iron hammers
and spikes, a few crude shovels, and get to work carving out
the least forbidding cliff surrounding them. 26,000 cubic
meters of stone they removed in the project, amazing
considering the vertical work site, and the fact that it was
hauled out by hand and bundle. Many died during construction
of this 1250 meter Cliffside loggia, lending merit to its
name Tian Ti, or ‘Stairway to Heaven' if you like.
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FINDING
GUOLIANG ISN'T EASY,
Sixth Try -
Wrong Guoliang #5
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Just for the heck of it, I went back to
Google Earth and decided to close the program to clear the
places I had already looked at from memory. When I
reopened the program, I simply typed in "Guoliang, China".
Look what popped up! Now this looked promising.
Except look...
there is
Hunan back to haunt me again!
How weird is that?
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I clicked the
first link on the list, the one that simply said "Guoliang".
This link took me to Sichuan Province in southern China
which was about 600 miles away from Henan Province.
Nope, this was
definitely not it either. That was the fifth wrong
Guoliang I have been directed to.
However, there
were three links for Guoliang listed above. One of
them was certain to be the one I wanted. Let's try the
second link! The second link said "Guoliang
tunnel".
That had to be it!
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FINDING
GUOLIANG ISN'T EASY,
Seventh Try
- Back to Xiyagou
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You are not
going to believe this. The second link took me back to Xiyagou!
I clicked the nearest picture and look what came up!
If you recall,
Xiyagou was the parallel village to Guoliang that was
located in the Shanxi Province (4th Try).
In addition, the caption clearly says this place is located
in
Hunan.
Nope, this
isn't the right place.
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This was my
biggest disappointment by far. This spot was
definitely wrong on three accounts.
One, this spot was definitely Xiyagou, not Guoliang.
Second, it was listed in Hunan Province, but on the map
showed up in Shanxi Province. Third, the pictures
clearly identified the place as Xiyagou.
How could
someone go to all the trouble of place marking this spot and
get it so completely wrong?
If you
want to go look for yourself, copy these coordinates:
35.639924115, 113.59240636
Then paste
them into Google Earth and take a gander.
This Guoliang
Village is proving to be very elusive. Two of the
three links have come up empty.
Still, there
were three links. Maybe the last one will be a home
run.
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FINDING
GUOLIANG ISN'T EASY,
Eighth Try
- Wrong Guoliang #6
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Bad news, the
third link was another
strikeout. This was definitely not the right place
either.
There was not one single blue picture box in sight.
The nearest
town was "Mayiti". Not only was there nothing to look
at in the vicinity, the location appeared to be in Hebei
Province which was north of Henan Province.
Someone sure
went to a lot of trouble to mismark our destination.
This is the
most ridiculous wild goose chase I have ever been on, but
something tells me I will find this place yet. How I
am not sure, but I am not going to give up.
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FINDING
GUOLIANG ISN'T EASY,
Ninth Try -
I Find Many New Dead Ends
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For my ninth
try, I decided to use a new tactic - brute force.
I had
one clue to go on. One of the blogs I had reviewed said
this:
"The
village is north of Huixian. It lies
up in the Taihang Mountains
right on the border of the
Henan and Shanxi provinces."
Interestingly,
Google Earth has a mysterious white line that seems to
adhere to the border of the provinces. I decided to scan along the white
borderline and see what I came
up with.
There were two major lakes I used as landmarks. Both
lakes turned out to be major reservoirs, Shimen in
the south, Sanjiaokou in the north.
I began a
concentrated search pattern within the suspected area. For hours I carefully zoomed
in and out the entire area between the two reservoirs looking for
clusters of blue picture dots.
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I have never
seen a feature on Google Earth that allows me to estimate distances.
So I switched
over to Google Maps to get an idea how large my search area
was. I estimated the distance from Xinxiang to the Sanjiaokou Reservoir at around
40 miles. Later on, I will explain my reasons for this
distance estimate.
For hours on
end I zoomed out to get the big picture, then I zoomed in to
look for village names and blue dot pictures. I
constantly had to guess which area to zoom in on.
Which valley is Guoliang hiding in? Or what mountain
cliff might contain the tunnel? There were hundreds of
mountains and valleys to choose from in my search area.
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Here is a simple
example. Take the picture on the left. From that
point on Google Earth, I had to zoom in 13 times to get a
closeup of Shimen Reservoir on the right.
Note that both a
caption - Mt Kanao - and a blue dot appeared. I
would zoom to get captions, then zoom out to get the big
picture. This process took about 5 hours spread out over
two days.
The distance
from Sanjiaokou to Shimen could not have been more than 20
miles, but it seemed like I was looking for a needle in a
haystack. |
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Typically, all
I saw was the big picture like what you see on the right
here. Lots of green mountains plus the helpful
mysterious white line that I assumed was the Henan Province
border.
As I scanned,
the names of the villages and blue dots were usually
invisible.
The only way
to see the blue dots and the village names was to stop and
zoom in. It usually required zooming in 13 times
before the names and dots appeared.
It was a crude
and imprecise search technique, but I was convinced that
Guoliang would be surrounded by several tell-tale blue dots
if I could just zoom in on the right spot.
Slowly but surely, my "zoom in - zoom out" method began to
produce clues.
It took an
entire day of searching, but I
eventually identified seven possible blue dot clusters.
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AREA 1
As I scanned along the
white border, I
found my first dot cluster just west of the lake where I
began my search. I named it Area 1.
As you can see, there were seven blue dots.
I opened up the pictures.
Area 1 turned out to be a
lovely waterfall area.
I later
learned the lake's name. It out to be Shimen Reservoir
which served as one of my major reference points throughout
the search.
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AREA 2
Area 2
was just north of Shimen Reservoir.
It turned out to be another
lovely waterfall area, but with a much different look.
These blue dots revealed many wonderful pictures.
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AREA 3
The dot
cluster in Area 3 turned out to be our old friend
Xiyagou.
Note that all the dots in the picture on the right were north of the border... Xiyagou
was in
Shanxi Province, not Henan.
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AREA 7
Area 7
was promising. I noticed a cluster of 15 blue dots
along a line.
Alas, when I opened them, I discovered the pictures were
taken by a group that was hiking across the Taihang
Mountains. Boy, I bet that was a fun trip. These
mountains have some really beautiful scenery.
I enjoyed
looking at the pictures immensely. Even though it probably seems like
I was on a wild goose chase, I freely admit I had the time
of my life exploring this remote area of the world using Google
Earth. I felt like I was on an adventure of sorts.
Viewing those
Panoramio photos
made all the difference in the world. These snapshots
allowed me to get an idea of this exotic part of the world I
was visiting.
Not once did I
feel like I was wasting my time.
If I had one
regret, it is that all the captions on the photographs were
written in Chinese. Maybe if I could have read what
they said, I could have gotten some clues to help me find
our missing Guoliang.
Oh well, can't have everything!
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AREA 6
At Area 6,
I found two mysterious dots. Both dots revealed
pictures that appeared to be Guoliang.
However, after zooming in and out, I couldn't find any
mention of Guoliang. There was not one village that
popped up. The pictures were just randomly placed in
the middle of nowhere.
However,
finding those dots was encouraging. It made me think I
was on the right track using this brute force method. Surely
Guoliang had to around here somewhere.
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AREA 5
Area 5
broke my heart. I couldn't
find what I was looking for between the original two lakes.
So I drifted north of the upper lake, the one that turned
out to be Sanjiaokou Reservoir. I saw a single
blue dot. When I clicked it, the single dot turned
into three dots.
All three blue dots turned out to
pictures of Guoliang!
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There was just
one problem - similar to Area 6, there was not a single
village named "Guoliang" in the area.
Area 5 marked the fourth time I had found random Guoliang
pictures. Rather than be discouraged, I was more
convinced than ever the correct location had to be in one of
these valleys. I knew if I just kept exploring, I would find
it eventually.
The problem is that my cursor had to be directly over an
area when I zoomed in for the blue dots to appear.
This was slow going. I
moved into my third hour of looking.
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FINDING
GUOLIANG ISN'T EASY,
Tenth Try -
Ta da! I Find the True Guoliang!
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I eventually
gave up on the area north of Sanjiaokou Reservoir.
Moving
back south, I saw a valley and zoomed in.
I saw a cluster of blue dots I had not noticed before.
As I zoomed in, out of nowhere the word
Guoliangcun
appeared.
I immediately clicked the
Blue
Dots in the
Red Box. |
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Look at the three pictures below. Every one of them
was a picture of Guoliang! But I had seen
pictures of Guoliang before. What made this
different was the name of the village had popped up as well. This was definitely the right place. My search was over. I had found the
real Guoliangcun. Finally.
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For the record, the correct coordinates
for Guoliangcun are
35°43'52.64"N, 113°36'13.77"E |
If you enter
these coordinates into Google Earth, it will take you
straight there.
By the way,
take note of the village in the map named
Shayaoxiang.
It is the largest village near Guoliang. It appears on
several maps of China, including this Maplandia photo
on the right.
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Just for fun,
I typed "Shayaoxiang, Henan, China" into both Google
Maps. I was amazed to see the screen take me straight
to the right place.
Then I looked
around. Guess what I found just down the road from Shayaoxiang?
There is Guoliang!

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The good news
is that it turns out you can actually find "Guoliang"
yourself on Google Maps.
Just type in "Shayaoxiang, henan, china" and watch it go to
work.
I wasn't
finished yet. I couldn't help myself. I had to
do it. I typed "Guoliang, henan, china" into the same
Google Map.
Bad news.
That place marker on the map is none other than our old
friend Xiyagou, the parallel universe city. To
refresh your memory, the dead end on my fourth try turned
out to be Xiyagou.
Look at that
grey border line. Both the A and B place markers are
in Shanxi Province, but they are marked "Hunan".
Is this messed up or what?
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I found it odd
that Google Maps had taken me to a location for Guoliang at
all.
There is no
way you will remember this, but for my second
move on Day One, I had tried using the search engine for Google Maps. As
you can see for yourself, I struck out on both Guoliangcun
and Guoliang.
Please note I was in the map for Henan Province, but to no
avail.
Now two days
later, I was getting results for both Guoliang and
Guoliangcun, albeit incorrect ones. This search had
many inconsistencies that I cannot explain.
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I still wasn't
finished. I was curious to see where Google Maps would take
me if I typed in "Guoliangcun" instead of Guoliang.
I shouldn't
have been surprised, but I was. This directed me to a
location I had never seen before. The place marker put
"Guoliangcun" about five miles from Huixian and about
ten miles from Xinxiang, the two major departure points.
This location
was closer than usual, but still not correct.
I couldn't
help myself. I decided to zoom in.
See what I
discovered below.
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I don't know
the exact distance between the correct Guoliang and the
bogus placemark location, but I suppose 30 miles give or
take 10 would be a good estimate.
For now, I
think I have demonstrated beyond a shadow of a doubt that
the location of the "true" Guoliang was indeed a mystery to
many people on the Internet.
In addition to
my own mistake back in 2007 when I placed Guoliang in Hunan
rather than Henan, I uncovered at least four Guoliang
placemarks that were clearly mistakes. The situation
here is a prime example.
This final
confusion will serve as a most fitting conclusion.
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THE MAPS TO
GUOLIANG
During my
three day search for the
real Guoliangcun, I created several maps similar to the one
above to help me get oriented (small joke).
At this point,
I am so certain of the location of Guoliang, I honestly
believe I could rent a car and drive there myself. If
you are planning on visiting Guoliang, you would probably
find the maps I have provided very useful. These maps
are so accurate, I bet you could drive there too!
GUOLIANG
MAPS
Thanks for visiting!
Rick Archer
October, 2009
dance@ssqq.com for
comments
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