HUASHAN LETTERS
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Forward Note from Rick
Archer
July 07, 2008
Welcome to the
Huashan Letters page!
As you will see, I have received quite a bit of
correspondence regarding my Huashan story. Most of these letters are from people
who either wished to thank me for posting the article or to share further information about Mt Huashan.
However, not all the letters have been positive.
As you continue to read the Huashan Letters, I
think it is important that you understand up front that the
authenticity of this page is under attack. In July 2008, my original story received a fair amount of
criticism from two sources. These were people who did not agree the Huashan climb is
dangerous at all. I assume they were worried that my
article was giving the entire world the wrong impression of Huashan
and unnecessarily discouraging the faint-hearted from visiting in the
process.
One person wrote a vicious letter (the
criticism is listed in Letter Eight below). The other person went to the trouble of
listing my name in Wikipedia along with the claim that I
have deliberately misled people as to the danger of Mt
Huashan. As you might gather, I didn't appreciate
either
attack one bit.
However, I did at least sense an indirect compliment.
Both critics realized that the
SSQQ Huashan Page contains the most information
regarding Huashan of any website on the Internet. Due
to its elevated position on Internet Search Engines, this
page comes up to practically any person on Planet Earth who
is curious about Huashan. Consequently the
criticism made me aware that I have a responsibility to get
the story right.
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For now, let me briefly address the concerns of my critics
before continuing. This will allow all readers a better
perspective. I think it is important to note I have
never personally climbed Huashan or had any direct
experience of the place. Therefore my critics have every right
to use this fact as proof that I don't know what I am
talking about. I fully acknowledge the
chance exists that perhaps my critics are correct.
Perhaps the Huashan climb is indeed a lot safer than I give it
credit for.
Please note there
have also been three major developments since my original story in
January 2007.
First, several people who have
actually made the climb have written to report there are
many new safety features in effect. So perhaps it is true that some of the danger
has been removed since I originally published this story
(you will be able to read these letters further below).
Second, there is an amazing amount of Huashan pictures that
can be found on the Internet as of July 2008. When I
first wrote my story in January 2007, there were only a
limited number of pictures and I published
practically every one I could find. I don't know
if this proliferation is related to lifting the ban on
cameras at Huashan or simply the growth of the Internet or
both, but it means you no longer have to depend on my
Huashan web page to find good Huashan pictures. Since
I based my assessment of danger largely on the basis of the
pictures, more pictures means more accuracy.
Third, when I wrote my original story in January 2007, I could discover only one single 30 second video
posted on the Internet. That's it - a SINGLE VIDEO. Since
then, that situation has changed greatly. In May 2008,
I discovered there are now quite a few
videos related to the Huashan climb. These videos give a first-hand
account of the experience that enhance the material that I have posted on my web site
(I will list the location of these
videos later on this page). I doubt
seriously these videos are 'fake'. These
videos will allow you to make your own judgment
about the danger of the Huashan climb. In
other words, the true picture of Huashan is being brought
more clearly into focus.
Now let's begin our review of the Letters.
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Letter One: Andre
Hycenko's Climb at Mt Huashan
January 2008
Rick Archer's Note:
In January 2008, I was searching the Internet for more
recent
pictures of Mt. Huashan. Buried deep on the twentieth page of
a Google search, I discovered an excellent account of the Mt. Huashan
experience complete with pictures.
For people who are
contemplating this hike, I think Mr. Hycenko's story will be quite
illuminating.
The following account was written by Andre Hycenko
Drizzle, an
early start and a 3 hour overcrowded mini-bus ride is what started a
day that i will never forget. Mt. Huashan, nearly 2km's high with 5
main peaks is an image most common in traditional Chinese paintings.
Most paintings of mountains are most likely those of Mt. Huashan.
Starting at the bottom, i joined a group of 5 Chinese university
students. One spoke vary basic English and i can basically try and
speak basic Chinese. Later these students fizzled down to 2 as Mt.
Huashan is very physically demanding.
Up we went, up and up and up. So many steps, some really steep and
others were wet and slippery as we were climbing inside a cloud most
of the morning. There are many temples, massive boulders and
countless waterfalls along the 4 hour trek that eventually took us
to the lowest peak. This is where you can pay $15AUS and get here by
cable car in under 5 minutes. That's cheating and the hike ended up
being well worth it.
From having hardly
no-one during the first few hours to having hundreds of
people, fit and full of energy in-front of us felt a little
touristy, but we kept going. Legs fatigued but starting to
get into a rhythm, we scrambled past the bulk to try and
reach every peak this mountain has to offer in the 4 hours
of daylight we had left.
The cable-car peak, North, South, East and West peaks, all
having their own dramatic cliffs and flora where they were all
breathtaking and unique. Climbing "The Dragon Ridge", 1 metre wide
and about 300 metres long with steps, handrails and 2-way traffic
in-between two peaks is one of the best views i have ever seen.
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Climbing to the
North Peak, the furthest and highest one out of the
5 was a momentous effort. Once again there were so many steps. I
have never been this high before and seeing clouds below you moving
around and the sun beating down on you made me feel on top of the
world, and hey, i was!
In-between the West and North Peak, is a path called 'Changkongzhandao'
(aka the cliff side plank path). This path is pretty much the whole
reason for me coming to Mt. Huashan. Originally seeing photos of
this awesome sight in an email when i was working, i decided i had
to come and take a look for myself. The path leads to a small
lookout where it is about 70 metres in length. Once you reach the
end, you just come back and continue on your way. It is a cliff
face. 90 degrees.
To get across, they have whacked large nails into
the side of the cliff and placed planks of wood over the top for you
to cross. The path is about 40cm wide (16 inches)! There is also a chain nailed
to the rock for you to hold onto as you make your way across.
For
$5AUS you can choose to hire a safety harness (you would be
absolutely stupid, i mean insane not to have one). Half of the path
are planks of wood and the other half are foot holes carved into the
rock.
As the people i was with were too scared to go,
i went alone
taking the photos myself trying not to drop the camera with my hands
shaking as if i had just drunk 20 cups of coffee.
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I took my time and on the way back another brave bloke was coming
towards me to do the same walk. I asked him to take a photo of me
and he explained to me that the ultimate photo to take on this path
is a pose where you lean back facing the cliff wall (because of your
harness), your body 45 degrees, relying 100% on your harness with
both arms waving in the air! The ground by the way is 1km down.
The best i could do was lean 45 degrees over the edge but my hands
were stuck firmly to the strap connecting my body to the wall. I
couldn't let go, my brain was telling me "Go on, do it", but my
hands wouldn't budge. Now i see myself as an adventurous person
willing to try anything, but this was the first time in my short
years where my brain and body disagreed with one another and it felt
really strange.
I hit my limit where i had no idea what my limit was up until now.
And I'm actually quite glad knowing it's hanging off a cliff relying
on a piece of metal and strap, 1km up on a plank of wood, now that
can't happen too often, can it? There is a saying 'Feel the fear and
do it anyway'. That was actually shuffling across those wooden
planks.
The adrenalin rush i got from that and hiking Mt. Huashan lasted all
the way back down to the cable car where it was 7:00pm and the
perfect time to leave for a 3 hour bus ride back to Xi'an.
Mt Huashan, 5 peaks and 5 blisters on my feet, coincidence, i think
not.
June
4, 2008
Follow-up to Andre's initial story
Rick
Archer's Note: Six months after I published the Andre's
account of his climb, I received this follow-up email
from him.
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-----Original Message-----
From: Andre Hycenko
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 10:23 PM
To: Rick Archer
Subject: Mt Huashan Story
Hi Rick,
I was just reading your replies to you Mt Huashan stories
and I'm surprised of the people who went there and are
saying a few points that i mentioned are untrue.
Everything i wrote is what i experienced and i have no
reason to lie. As well as they would have had different
experiences to what i had.
As a result i would like to make clearer about what the
plank path is to help further travelers make a decision to
go there. If you wish to publish this you have my
permission.
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To add to my story on Mt Huashan (also known as Mt. Hua and
Mt. Huangshan - i don't know why there are so many similar
names) - the plank path is an
option where you don't have to walk it if you don't want to.
It doesn't connect to anything except a small lookout where
you see the same thing walking along the planks.
There are security cameras along the way to make sure you
haven't fallen off as well as to take your photo if you want
to pay for it. The harness goes all the way from the start
to the end where you have 2 clips. When you reach a point
where they have secured the safety wire, you unclip one clip
then attach the second. Once you have done so, attach it to
the next then keep going. The whole length is about 70
metres one way (from memory), then you come back. Half of
the section is planks of wood and the other is foot holes
carved into the rock. I had to take the photos myself by
using a mini tripod and placing it on some steps then
scuttling back to position myself.
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The friends i had made were too scared to attempt it. I
found it a huge thrill and an experience i will never
forget. The walls of the cliff aren't exactly 90
degrees but close enough. Simply
speaking, if you fell you would die.
With the rest of the walk, I went in Spring 2007 where the
weather was great. In the morning i walked through a cloud
on the way up where it is paved all the way, but there are
narrow steep steps that are slippery due to it being wet
because of the mist and can be dangerous for those not as
fit or not careful enough. I walked from the very bottom to
all the peaks in one day. A lot of people choose to take the
cable car up where once you are up there it is never as
impressive if you didn't complete the hard slog in getting
there in the first place. Like many other walks around the
world another example is Machu Picchu
in Peru, would not have been as impressive if you don't
complete the Inca Trail beforehand (Please
note that this is my opinion).
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Mt. Huashan is one of the best walks i have ever done and i
strongly urge for people to go there (even you Rick) as the
walk and scenery is absolutely breathtaking. The plank walk
is just a bonus where i would have the same opinion about
these peaks even if i didn't complete the plank path.
My blog that i have written was initially meant for just
friends and family to let them know what i am up to.
Explaining exactly what i was up to would have been boring
and a waste of my time as I'm on holiday and didn't want to
spend all my time on the Internet. Since then i have learnt
many people are reading my blog stories and ask me a lot of
questions about them which i am happy to answer.
What i have written about is my experience where everyone
will experience something different. The best way to finding
out about Mt Huashan is to go there yourself.
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RICK ARCHER'S
NOTE: I find it very peculiar that Andre would have to defend his
story. It is incredible to hear him report that people have
questioned his eye-witness account of the Huashan climb. There
is not one suspicious bone in my being to question his account.
I personally accept everything he has said without hesitation.
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Letter Two:
Christoph Rehage
February 2008
-----Original Message-----
From: Christoph Rehage
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 8:34 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: huashan article
Dear Rick,
I have climbed Huashan yesterday, and I found your article to be
misleading.
- The dangerous plank walk is in fact a tourist attraction where you
have to get off the path that leads to the South Peak, then enter a
large temple door, pay 30rmb as an entry fee for the plank walk, and
then get safety equipment strapped around your waist.
I asked the
people in charge if you could take the plank walk to ascend South
Peak, but they told me the only place it actually leads to is a
viewing platform. So, if your sources make it sound like they
were forced to take the plank walk to get to where they wanted to
go, well that's obviously not true.
Instead, they had to get
off the path, enter a temple, purchase a ticket, and then with
safety equipment they were allowed to play around on the plank walk.
(Rick Archer Note:
Including Andre Hycenko's account in the previous letter, Mr.
Rehage's account means that two different people say the "Boardwalk"
is a one-way street, not a dangerous through way as was first
thought).
- the sky ladder didn't seem dangerous. It's said to be 90 degrees,
but in reality it's not. There are handrails everywhere in any
difficult part of the trail. Old people and children can climb up
Huashan, and they do.
- in spite of the heavy snow this country has been experiencing in
the past few weeks, about 90% of the path is in top-condition and
free of snow and ice.
That's about the main points that I found misleading.
It sounds like you've never been up on Huashan (RA
note: Chris
is correct - I
haven't been to Huashan), which is a pity, because it is
really amazingly beautiful. I started climbing at midnight and got
to the East Peak before sunrise, and boy that was totally awesome!
I don't know about the motivation of your two sources as to why
would they give misleading information. My only guess is that
they're trying to make themselves sound like they are the
brave ones for
getting through dangerous situations like that.
But really it's nothing at all.
Cheers dude,
---chris---
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Letter Three:
Jarrod Wirth
April 2008
-----Original Message-----
From: Jarrod Wirth
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 4:46 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Mt Huashan climber
Hi Rick,
I've just returned from China and climbed Mt Huashan while there. A
friend learnt I was heading to China & sent me pictures of Huashan.
After a google search I relied on the information provided at your
site. There's also some great Huashan videos on 'youtube'. I would
ask you to staple the following to your page as I'd like to add some
information for those who may follow. Mt Huashan is a great climb
and nowhere near as difficult as your site suggests.
I wouldn't
advise you head there unless you can at least speak Mandarin. You
could go cold turkey with a phrase book or pay a translator. With a
translator you may find they want to rush, get you up there and back
ASAP so they can hook another paying customer to rush along before
moving on to the next. Don't trust your translator, if you don't use
one good for you but if you don't speak Mandarin you might as well
act like an idiot savant and expect to be ripped off. You can get a
bus from Xian, it costs next to nothing however you might end up
losing all your money. Pick pockets working in groups of 5 to 9
target buses, they get on and then get off after relieving everyone
on the bus of their valuables. For US$20 you can hire a government
approved 'foreigners' taxi at most hotels in Xian, the taxi takes
you there and brings you back the same day, this is a good option.
Getting to the top is simple, when you buy your entrance ticket, you
get a map, use it. You can walk from the base along a number of
starting points or catch the chair lift which takes you to the North
Peak. There are many people along the way trying to earn a buck,
they'll beckon you to follow them to small restaurants, stalls,
historical sites or just up the garden path then charge you for the
privilege and directions back. Use your map and go your own way. As
stated you can walk from the base but if doing so best prepare for
the possibility of an overnight stay on the mountain. There is a
guest house between the East and South Peaks, a rough hostel style
accommodation where you can purchase water, dried sundries and small
rooms supplied with warm bedding. The mountain views to the south
from these are incredibly good however during peak season I imagine
you must have to pre-book. To get up and back in a day take the
chairlift, it takes you to the North Peak, the North Peak is
definitely not deadly, but from there you can hike to East, Centre,
South and West Peak all within a 6 to 7 hour time frame.
This is a great walk and I highly recommend it, certainly it can be
challenging and without doubt death could easily call upon the unfit
or unwary. However you don't need to spend the night before 'making
peace with yourself' in case you don't come back. If you're going
keep in mind that you're going to have a really good climb on a
really beautiful mountain, because that's what it is.
Rick let me know if you'd like some of my pictures and I'd be happy
to forward some of them for you. Many thanks, and for those crazy
enough to embark on the adventure, good climbing!
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QUESTIONS ARISE
ABOUT INCONSISTENCIES IN THE HUASHAN STORY
Letter Four:
Roslyn
April 2008
-----Original Message----- From: Roslyn B Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 11:09 AM To: dance@ssqq.com Subject: Huashan Hiking Trail
Wow. Thanks for sharing those pictures. That has to be the most
incredible scenery I've ever seen!
I did some looking around online
though and it seems that the peaks are switched. Even on your
diagrams, you have arrows pointing the gondola that you said goes to
the North peak, and on the diagram the arrow goes to the South peak.
Google Earth seemed to confirm this, that most of the photographs
were from the South Peak.
I've never been there, so I have no personal experience, but looking
at the maps and reading the stories, it does make much more sense if
the dangerous trail led to the South Peak. Thank you so very much
for researching this story and making it available on the internet.
It gave me a very entertaining afternoon.
Roslyn
RICK ARCHER'S REPLY:
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Archer
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 12:08 PM
To: Roslyn B
Subject: RE: Huashan Hiking Trail
That’s
interesting that you point out that the peaks have been
switched. When I first wrote the article, I had them reversed in
the way you suggest, Roslyn. The South Peak
was the dangerous peak. But then I read a letter from Andre
Hycenko that seemed to contradict my previous understanding of
how the peaks are laid out so I went back and
switched them around. It took me an hour to rewrite my
description!
I will tell you the truth:
I have never been there and have
written everything based on other people’s accounts.
If you clear up the
Peak mystery, by
all means let me know. I prefer to be right even if it means
changing my story.
In the meantime, I will assume that
Mr. Hycenko meant to say "South" and I will switch the names back.
Letter Five: Steve
February 2008
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve P
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 2:38 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: huashan article
Hi Rick, I found this page to be very interesting and shows that
there is still a lot of world out there that most people do not know
about. I am writing to just ask a question.
Of the stories and the pictures , the one picture that shows Mr.
Hycenko on the plank walk and the pictures of the plank walkers from
the Frank and Laura story, why are safety cables there for Mr.
Hycenko and not on the pictures that you used in the couples story?
Did something change between 2003 and 2008? Where the pictures you
found older than the stories and since then a safety precaution was
implemented?
Still an exciting place to visit if one can.
RICK ARCHER'S REPLY:
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Archer
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 7:17 PM
To: Steve P
Subject: RE: huashan article
I have never been
to Huashan. Back in late 2006, a friend sent me an email with
many of the exciting pictures published on my site.
Fascinated by the pictures, I then did some Google work and came
up with several stories written by people who
had been to Huashan. The most exciting story (Frank and
Laura) seemed the perfect accompaniment to the amazing pictures.
However, in regards to the “boardwalk area” that you have asked
about, I think parts of the original
account I published were misleading.
They did not make it clear this plank was a
dead end in their story. Since Mr. Hycenko’s letter, I received another one from Christoph Rehage that asserts that gangplank is merely a tourist
attraction and not a dangerous invitation to death.
In other words, you can bypass this
plank area if you wish.
So to answer your question, I am beginning to
wonder if parts of the Frank and
Laura story are inaccurate.
Another explanation is that something has changed since the 2003
story of Frank and Laura.
I would trust Andre Hycenko!
His
pictures are pretty convincing. I added
Andre's picture and personal account to
my story even
though I knew someone like you would eventually point out the
contradiction. Thank you for keeping me on my toes.
A NOTE TO HUASHAN READERS
FROM RICK ARCHER
April 21, 2008
Now that you have read Steve and Roslyn's
letters above and my replies, let me take this opportunity to completely and totally admit my
article about Huashan is not up to the standards of National
Geographic.
Over Christmas vacation in December 2006, I
wrote stories about four different locations - the Russian Highway
from Hell, the Bolivian Highway of Death, the Chinese Guoliang
Tunnel, and of course the Mt Huashan Hiking Trail.
The problem is that I have never been anywhere near any of these four
locations in my life.
I wrote absolutely
everything based on accounts I found on the Internet (some of which
gave contradictory information).
I do not mind admitting some
of what I wrote might be inaccurate. Frankly speaking, I wrote
the best story I could
based on the information that was available at the time.
I took one look at the pictures and concluded the climb appeared to
be
dangerous. I have a right to my opinion, by the way. Then an internet search turned up accounts that
confirmed my initial conclusion. In other words, this is a
"Research Paper", not an "Experience Paper."
I have not "misled" anyone. Everyone knows that
first-hand accounts are more reliable. I have gone to great lengths to
explain who I am, why I wrote the story, and to point out my own
limitations. I certainly don't think anyone who reads these
Huashan letters will think I am deliberately deceiving the public.
Furthermore, as
you can tell from the total absence of
advertisements on this web page, I am not trying to make a
single cent off of my web site.
What possible motive would I have to tell
lies about a place I have never been to and could care less about?
Like most people, I have plenty of axes to grind - serious stuff
like global warming,
overpopulation, famine and genocide - as well as less serious stuff like traffic
congestion, oil prices, spam, and unwanted sales calls on my cell phone.
But I assure all readers that spreading horrible Internet
lies about Mt Huashan is not on my agenda.
ACCURACY OF RICK ARCHER'S
HUASHAN STORY
So why wasn't my original story totally accurate?
Considering at that time
I was writing for a very limited
audience (my own Newsletter readers in Houston, Texas, USA), I did
not think it was important to be perfect.
In the case of Huashan, a friend forwarded me pictures of the Huashan climbing trail
on November 27, 2006. I was so
amazed by how dangerous the pictures looked, I could not wait to
share them with my friends. So I published
my Huashan story
in January 2007 with the specific intention of
sharing the pictures with my Newsletter readers here at
my dance studio in Houston.
I admit my original standard for accuracy was not set very high.
Like the game of horseshoes, I figured 'close to
correct' was good enough.
At the time, I never expected this particular page
would become an Internet darling for thousands of Huashan fans
around the globe.
Now that people have begun to ask about
discrepancies in my story, I am more than willing to set the record straight.
Whenever somebody corrects me, I fix the problem. For example,
I erroneously listed an excellent Huashan video as "Chinese" in
origin. People pointed out it was actually "Japanese."
So I corrected my mistake.
Other people say I have the North-South direction of the Peaks mixed up.
Okay, I believe them. Unfortunately no one has come forward to
say what the correct direction is. But when someone does help
me get it right, I will make the correction immediately.
I am more than willing to set the record straight.
However the real headache is determining the exact level of 'DANGER'
on Huashan.
First of all, this is a subjective issue. Young men like Andre
Hycenko who climb mountains on a regular basis are not going to be
intimidated by Huashan. But an elderly couple out for a hike
might end up scared out of their wits, especially if it starts to
rain or snow! Those steep steps are brutal if they are iced
over!
Second, I am forced to deal with contradictory evidence. Let
me give you a clear example. Look at the
Red Shirt picture posted on the right
with the "be careful" caption.
Study it. This is one of the pictures enclosed in Milt's email.
If this picture was sent to you, would you see evidence of
DANGER just like I did? Does that look safe to you?
Would you let your kid or your elderly parent walk on that?
No way!
Furthermore, do you
see a harness on that man in the red shirt
above? No!
Now please compare the
Red Shirt picture with the one of
Andre Hycenko below. It looks like Andre is traveling
on the same section as the man in red.
Yes, Andre has a
harness, but not Mr. Red. Mr. Red
Shirt
has no harness!
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"Be very
careful when
passing someone going in the
opposite direction." |
Please study the picture of Andre some more. Andre's walkway appears to
possibly dead end about 20/30 feet
to his right. Now look at the other picture with
Mr. Red Shirt above. Does it look like that set of planks hits a dead end?
I don't know the correct answer off hand, but it appears to me that it
continues to the right.
Now read
this passage from the Frank and Laura story:
"Yes, there were chains to hang onto, but there was ice and there was
wind and the margin for error was very small. Those planks
could not have been more than two feet wide. Exposed to the
elements, I wondered just how safe they were. (Note: This ramp
had a name: Floating-in-Air Road. But I called it Boardwalk)"
Not only do the pictures
make this area look dangerous, but so does this account. Since I am depending on Internet stories
like this, the pictures, and
the good will of people like Andre Hycenko to fill in the gaps,
I am only as good as this second-hand information permits me to
be.
I have no reason to fib. Why should I care if I got it
wrong? I have already stated that if I find a mistake in my narrative,
I will correct it. I did the best I could with the
information that was available to me at the time. If anyone
reading this story can clear up any discrepancies, I invite them to
share the corrections with me.
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So let me ask another
question: Do you see a harness on that person in the picture
on the right? No, of course not. Do you see a dead
end at the end of that ramp? There may be one, but I can't see it from this angle.
It looks like this set of planks goes
through to somewhere, but Andre says it is a dead end. Andre
had a harness, but there isn't any harness here.
This is known as a
"discrepancy." Is it a dead end or isn't it?
Why are
there harnesses in one picture, but not the other two?
But Andre is busy climbing the great mountains of the world.
Do you honestly think Andre has the time to explain these
discrepancies?
Here is my final point: The main reason I do not know the complete truth about this hiking trail is because I have pictures
that contradict each other!
But rather than hide my
ignorance, I openly admit I am flying blind.
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LET'S PLAY A GAME!
Pretend that someone just sent you this picture
in an email. What's the first thing that comes to your mind?
My first impression was that it looks dangerous!!!
What about you? Did you think the same thing?
I am willing to bet if you
saw the same pictures I did without the benefit of any modifying evidence,
you too would conclude that Huashan is unbelievably dangerous!
I said Huashan looked
dangerous because that is the impression I got. That said, if
I get new pictures that indicate Huashan is a picnic walk in the park, I
will add those as well. I am not trying to tell lies
about this mountain. Otherwise I
would not DELIBERATELY post contradictory information!
I have too much respect for the position I find myself in.
You see, by a series of cosmic convergences, my web page of Huashan
has magically become so widely visited that it is now the second
most read page on the Internet for "Huashan". When I
last looked in July 2008, Google listed my Huashan web page link in
second place right below
Wikipedia.
Consequently I feel a responsibility to get the story right.
People from all over the planet are coming to me for the best
stories and the best pictures of one of the most sacred places in
China. In a sense, they are depending on me to be their eyes
and ears to this exciting location. Except there is one
problem....
I have no direct experience of the place! How crazy is
that?
"and a blind man shall lead them..."
So here is my request to all visitors to this web page - if
you have information to share, please step forward and do so. I am
very easy to contact
dance@ssqq.com
|
Furthermore I am not
sensitive about the discrepancy problem. My conscience is
clear because I have done the best I could given the hand that was
dealt to me. Correct me if you see an error with the
understanding that all
I care about is getting it right.
And while I am at it, let me take this moment to thank you for visiting my page. I
am flattered that your interest in Huashan has brought you to my
site. Now please help me get it right for the sake of all the
thousands of people who will follow in your footsteps.
Rick Archer
dance@ssqq.com
April 21, 2008
|
|
Letter Six: Anthony regarding YouTube Videos
April 2008
-----Original Message-----
From: Anthony W
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 8:46 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Chinese hike details
Thanks for a fascinating web page. A couple comments.
"Do you see a harness?" -- that is not the question to ask. Note
that in the Andre photo there is--in addition to the heavy
chain--a rope or cable.
It is obvious there is no such rope or cable in the man-in-red
photo. Assuming the photos are
of the same section of trail, which I accept, it
seems obvious that the Chinese added a cable.
Note that the harness is attached to the cable with a carabiner.
Such a carabiner would not slide over that large size chain,
hence the caption ("Be very careful when
passing") reflects a time when a hiker would have to
reach around an on-coming climber with no firm attachment to the
cliff. After the installation of the
cable, one hiker could stand away from the cliff, the other
scoot under him, and then one, with a firm grip on the chain in
a safe stance would briefly remove the
carabiner from the cable and then attach it on the other side of
the oncoming man's carabiner.
Since the chains seem to be very well anchored, I think the long
account by the scared American is
absurd. Provided one takes care to always have a
good grip on the chains, an occasional slip of a foot is
of no consequence. I have seen such over-dramatic accounts of
climbing the cable ladder up Half Dome
in Yosemite, equally silly. If you have acrophobia or no hand
strength, don't go, that's simple.
Like you, however, I have not been there.
By the
way, while I was writing my message, I came
upon this video
on Youtube. It shows the method of moving the carabiner(RA
note: this link is listed below).
RICK ARCHER'S REPLY TO ANTHONY:
Back when I was a kid, one of my favorite toys was my Chinese
finger trap. This clever device allowed you to put your
finger in, but would tense up when you tried to pull your finger
back out. Only by pulling your finger out very slowly
could you succeed in getting your finger back. That was a
lot of fun!
As for Frank and Laura, the mountain played a very mean trick on
them. Like the Chinese finger trap, the weather was pretty
good all the way up to the top. Then it suddenly started
to rain and ice up.
Easy one way, impossible going back - The very definition of a
Chinese finger trap. Except this time it was far more
deadly. The steep, icy, slippery steps on Huashan became a veritable Chinese Mountain Trap!
Furthermore you have to remember the couple in
question was in their late 50s. Since it was raining/icing on the
way down, they were really frightened. Since I am 58, I can
report that as you age,
confidence in your legs and your balance diminishes. Frank
and Laura
had every right to be afraid considering how bad the footing
was.
I would like to thank you for the video link. Thanks to
your suggestion, I must have
watched at a least a half-dozen videos. Although I am still not
sure what the answers are to the discrepancies, I did get a much
better feel for the hike.
I still think the climb is dangerous! But if you pay
attention, I imagine it is safe enough for someone in good
health.
However, don't ever lose sight of the fact that you are also
dependent on people around you. One serious accident at
Huashan was attributed to someone falling from above who hit
several people on the way down and made them fall too.
RICK ARCHER'S NOTE:
Thanks to Anthony's suggestion about the You Tube video, I discovered
there were quite a few other videos on
YouTube related to the Mount Huashan hiking trail.
Unfortunately, the absolute best video was narrated in Japanese (not
Chinese!) plus
it had Japanese
sub-titles. I found myself trying to remember if I had
any friends who spoke Japanese who might translate it for me and
clear up some of the confusion. Oh well.
Even after watching all six videos for about half an hour, I
felt both enlightened and yet still mystified by the entire story.
Here were my impressions:
DISCREPANCIES REMAIN INTACT - In at least two videos, I could have
sworn I saw people inching their way across narrow boards without
any safety equipment.
BE CAREFUL - There is no doubt in my mind there are some very
steep, dangerous places on this climb. As you watch people
climb, you can see they are clearly paying very close attention to what they
are doing. Each step is deliberate with eyes open wide to make
sure the step has been successful before transferring weight.
CROWDED - There appeared to be hundreds and hundreds of
people making this climb. You will see snake-like, single-file
columns of people stretching all along the mountain in practically
every video.
DANGEROUS - There were some amazing shots of chimneys,
vertical climbs, and narrow pathways there were just inches from a
fall to ones death.
SAFETY - It occurred to me that the Chinese might have
instituted many safety features. The story of Frank and Laura
dates back to 2003. One obvious answer to the discrepancies
between Frank and Laura's story versus that of the recent climbers
(Hycenko, Rehage, Wirth) is that the Chinese decided to install many
more safety features in recent years.
Here is a list of my 5 favorite YouTube Huashan videos (once you
visit YouTube, you will find more)
Mount Huashan Video (Rick
Archer's Note: This is the video suggested by Anthony. It is a 30 second video of the controversial
gangplank with a carabiner clearly attached)
Dangerous Hike Video
(Rick Archer's Note: This is the best of the bunch. It
is a 6 minute video prepared for a TV audience. Although it is
in Japanese, you still get an excellent idea that this hike is
definitely no walk in the park.)
Mount Huashan Video (Rick Archer's Note:
44 seconds of a climber clearly using safety devices to climb
a very dangerous section).
Huashan High Video (Rick Archer's Note: 5 1/2
minutes, this was my second favorite.)
Walking the Boardwalk - (Rick Archer's Note:
this is a 2 1/2 minute video clip featuring people walking
sideways across the Boardwalk in the days BEFORE they had the
harness.)
|
Letter
Seven:
Robin Esrock
THE MODERN GONZO PICTURES, STORY, AND VIDEO
May 2008
-----Original Message----- From:
Robin Esrock Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 5:25 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com Subject: Modern Gonzo on Mount Huashan
Hi Rick
I found your site most helpful finding info on Mount Huashan. I'm a
Canadian travel writer who also hosts a travel TV series, although
this was just for fun (and a column for an adventure magazine).
Thought you might be interested in what I found. I think you'll
particularly enjoy the Youtube video, shot at arms length.
1. Read
the adventure
2.
See the pictures
3. Watch the
Youtube Video
Bests, Robin Esrock
RICK
ARCHER'S NOTE: THE FOLLOWING ACCOUNT WAS WRITTEN BY
ROBIN ESROCK.
AFTER YOU FINISH THIS ACCOUNT, YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST GO SEE
HIS
HUASHAN VIDEO. IT IS AMAZING!
The Gonzo finds me on two narrow
wooden planks, resting on iron rivets, nailed into a
solid rock face on Mount Huashan. Below me, a
1000m plummet, and the snow and ice are making it
awfully slippery to hold on.
I am here because of
a picture that circulates on the Internet, claiming
to be, amongst other things, the world's most
dangerous hike. With harnesses in place, danger
might not be the right word. Scary comes to
mind. Mind numbingly frightening as all hell is
more accurate. Mount Huashan is a two-hour drive
from Xian, China's most ancient city and the
historical seat of its opulent dynasties.
As one of five sacred mountains in the country, the
rocky peaks attract hundreds, sometimes thousands,
of domestic tourists every day. They arrive in
buses, purchase tickets (with optional insurance),
and take the cable car towards the north peak.
From here rock-hewn trails lead to the four cardinal
peaks, punctuated with temples along the way where
one can make blessings, and secure engraved locks on
iron chains. For an atheist country, the Chinese
have always been a superstitious lot.
Dressed casually in sneakers, they hike up steep,
stone cut steps amongst weathered peasants carrying
heavy boxes of food to sell at stalls along the
way. It gets cold above 2000m, and I'm not dressed
for the snow that dusts the trees, the ice that
forms sharp teeth on the mouth of temple
ceilings.
There is just a smattering of westerners, amazed
that such a hazardous trail could exist, never mind
that it is popular with Chinese of all ages.
|

Robin Esrock
writes a column known as
Modern Gonzo. He is a travel writer
among other things. Robin now has a travel
show on Canadian TV known as
Word Travels. Mr. Esrock was kind
enough to contribute his personal experiences of
Huashan to our article.
|
Conforming to the unwritten rule that hiking
is a cordial hobby, I hear laughs and see smiles, in stark
contrast to grim people I encounter in the city. From the
boys who got a kick playing with my arm hair on the plane to
the couples and families on the mountain, in central China
I'm a rock star, someone to be admired and photographed.
As the trail gets steeper and slippery, I take the cement
fork that leads to the "Cliffside plank path" at 2160m,
located between the south and east peaks. The human traffic
peters out considerably. The wind blows with the warmth of
frostbite. Walking through a temple, I scale a rocky mound
to see a majestic view, holy almost, and a narrow trail to
the planks. A knee-high chain of iron is all that stands
between me and a parachute-free skydive off the edge. My
knees wobble, I say a thankful prayer my mother isn't seeing
this. A plaque in Chinese indicates that it will cost
30RMB's ($4) to continue, but a sign has boarded up the path
ahead, which seems to disappear anyway. All this way to
find "the world's most dangerous hike", and now it is
closed. I laugh. There's not much else to do. Then, a
young guy arrives with harnesses, and casually pulls away
the sign. The adventure is on. I pay him the cash, and
he attaches me with two carabiner hooks, briefly showing me
how to use the them to make my away forward. Canyoneering
in Costa Rica reminded me that one hook must always be
attached while unlocking and reattaching the other. Nice to
know I'm learning when it comes to these sorts of things.
My hands are freezing, and in a touch of kindness, the guy
takes off his thin white gloves and gives them to me. He
knows I'm going to need them. I don't know what I'm in
for.
I'm alone when I set off. For all the crowds
in China, they have left me to discover this one on my own.
The narrow ledge gives way to a vertical crevice, with
erratic iron bars descending to the next section, steel
stitches across the cut of rock. The wind has picked up,
my hands are numb, but I unclip the latches and carefully
lower myself down. Beneath my feet is a 1000m drop. I'm
overwhelmed by one of those "what the hell are you doing you
bloody idiot" moments. I get them occasionally, perk of the
job. I reach the last rung, swing to the right against
the sheer rock face, and there it is - the photo. THE
photo. Thin, crackled wooden planks hug the rock, covered
in ice and snow, and although it is a moment of terror, it
is also a moment of triumph. I have found the source of a
rumour. It was at a tourism schmooze talking to another
travel writer that I discovered the picture might have a
source in a Chinese mountain. Cosmically, I received an
invitation from the Chinese Tourism Authority to visit the
country the very next day. After some online research and
helpful Google mapping, I figured I could get there on the
same ticket. Call it divine manifestation. These things
happen to me. I call it Modern Gonzo. AnywayŠ
From here I begin to walk along the plank,
clicking in one
carabiner after another, until I stop in the
middle, look down, look ahead, look up. I have another
moment. A moment of sheer awe, lost in the bosom of the
nature. The surrounding mountains are enormous, sharp, and
desolate. I am just a speck surrounded on all sides by the
great outdoors, and I feel very small indeed. Ice dust
falls on my head from above. It's better not to think about
rocks doing the same. So I continue walking along the
planks, and it's not until 20m or so later that I hear the
laughs and giggles from a group of Chinese, clearly having a
whale of a time coming down the crevice. I stop and wait to
take pictures of them, to give the planks some scale, and
click out at the end to find a little clearing with a small
temple in a modest cave. The only way back is along the
same path, and that means walking around the others, but by
now I'm used to the planks, the view, the fear, and it's
easy getting past them, exchanging cameras to take some
pictures, as if this were just another normal place to find
yourself on a Tuesday afternoon. Up the crevice, back on
the narrow ledge, I thankfully return the gloves, and
continue along the path to the other peaks. With the
safety harnesses, I would be hard pressed to call Mount
Huashan the world's most dangerous hike. Scary as hell for
the novice like me, a fun day out for any climber, but
probably not your cup of green tea. True danger comes
without busloads of tourists.
|
|
Letter Eight: Antoine Attacks!
July
2008
-----Original Message-----
From: Antoine L
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 4:58 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Huashan
Mr. Archer,
I read you webpage in May 08 while I was studying in
China. The same weekend, I
got on a 14 hours train ride back to Xian, for the second
time, and begin the hike of Huashan.
Of course, this trip was unwelcome by many of my peer
students, however it was encouraged by my Chinese friends.
Here is the reason
- my peer students had seen pictures and based their
opinion of this climb only on what they had seen, exactly
like you did. In
fact, a few saw your website, but did not take the time to
entirely read it through.
Meanwhile, my Chinese friends were all very excited
of finding out the news.
I wonder just how many people in this world
canceled their plan to hike Huashan because of your website.
Your website truly makes
it look like Huashan is dangerous
and that those who climb it are hero.
The truth is, this is not a volcano, or
the Saharan desert. It is only a small mountain 2160 meters
high. You don't need to be superman to climb it, nor do you
need to be very courageous. In fact, I saw little 8 years
old kid hiking it. Thus I realized that my military
experience was useless, really, in this expected "lethal"
challenge.
I don't need to point out to you
that your article is not very academic. Even high school
students learn that they must not use websites as sources
for essays and such. However,
I have read your explanation in regards to the creation of
your website. I understand
your original purposes. Despite
this, I don't understand why you are actually keeping the
same story, which is extremely erroneous.
Huashan did make some modifications to its safety, but
it doesn't justify your article, especially when you write
at the top that it is updated as of May 08.
Huashan is safe, let's call it "Chinese safe" since American
standards would probably deny the access to hiker for law
reasons. I felt like you made it look like that
Chinese didn't care about their people.
This is so judgmental and naive.
Then you attempt to argue that the government hides
thing. So does the American government, and any
other government around the world.
Here is what I suggest your should do. First, go out there
and live it out. If huashan is a passion for you, get a
flight ticket and go hike it, you won't regret it.
Second, you must edit your whole website, because it is very
false and misleading. Third point, and this is
coming strictly from a military point of view, apologies are
no used in this world. You made a big mistake when
writing your article on huashan, well swallow up your pride
and do something about it.
If your website is as popular as you claim it is, it is
vital for the good of potential hiker that you edit the
pages immediately. You could leave a historical part
explaining the evolution of security on that tourist site.
You can choose to ignore my advice and take this personal.
Whatever your decision, remember that I am not the
first one to be upset with your website. So much that even
wikipedia
has an paragraph written on your false claims.
I am not attacking you, but your work. That's what
scholars
do, except that now I really have a good reason to do it. I
understand that my approach to pass my point may sound harsh
to you, but you must understand the military background I
come from. Anyhow, it should do you good, as I pointed the
solution to remedy the issue. Think about how frustrating it
is for the Chinese, who reads something degrading one of
their most attracted tourist site, as well as a sacred
mountain, by a foreigner who has never been there. It's like
when civilians writes about a war that they have never seen,
never experienced, criticizing the soldiers on the ground. I
am sure you understand seeing that you come from America. If
you don't, here is a hint. You wrote something based
on pictures, you exaggerated the paths, the pictures you
shows makes it look 3 times harder than it was, your words
make the Chinese look careless, not to say that it portray
their government to be corrupted. You might have
canceled the plans of many hikers planning to go to China,
convincing them it was truly unsafe (even before they
added the harness, it was still safe if you were smart about
it). You got the every
peaks confused, not to mention the directions.
Finally, you kept the
erroneous article standing as it was. In my
mind, this is a fail. And
you still haven't remedy to it, instead you sadly attempted
to explain yourself. I hope, on behalf of numerous potential
hikers, that you will take the job to hand like a man and
edit that website.
RICK ARCHER
RESPONDS TO ANTOINE'S LETTER EIGHT
July 7, 2008
I did not respond directly to Antoine's letter due to his
deeply insulting tone. There is a right way to
approach people and a wrong way. Antoine needs
to learn some manners.
However I do have some things
to say in reference to Antoine's letter.
|
The debate here
is a simple one:
Antoine says Huashan
is safe enough for an 8 year old. I say
Huashan looks dangerous.
Let's start
with a short review of the letter. According
to Antoine, my story was not very academic,
my story was extremely erroneous, I
made a big mistake when writing the
article, I have made false claims,
I argued that the Chinese didn't care about their
people, and my whole website is false
and misleading. Antoine even
challenged my manhood - "take the job like a
man..."
And to top it
off, I got
the every peaks
confused, not to mention the directions.
Now this I will admit. I probably did get 'the every
peaks' confused. Does that justify Antoine's level
of rudeness?
I deeply resent any accusation
that suggests I deliberately listed false claims about the
'danger' of Mt Huashan. Anyone who has taken the time to
read my
Huashan Letter
page to this point realizes I have published several emails contradictory to my original story.
As to how safe or
dangerous Huashan is, I invite you to draw your own
conclusion.
Here are
some points to consider:
1) I have listed
a report from a Chinese citizen who specifically
wrote about a serious climbing disaster at Huashan
back in the Eighties. You have my word I did not
make this up.
2) I have published literally dozens of
pictures. I based my claim of "danger" because the
pictures showed many places where the slightest
mistake could mean death. I did not 'doctor'
this pictures.
3) I have listed six different videos for my
readers to watch. Not one of these videos
makes Huashan look like an easy climb as Antoine
suggests. In fact, the Japanese video is
tougher on Huashan than anything I have written.
Does Antoine wish to argue with these videos?
4) I have listed letters from several people
who have actually climbed Huashan. Here are some
quotes:
Robin Esrock, the Canadian reporter, said, "There is just a smattering of westerners, amazed
that such a hazardous trail could exist, never mind
that it is popular with Chinese of all ages."
Andre Hycenko said, "The
walls of the cliff aren't exactly 90 degrees but
close enough. Simply speaking,
if you fell you would die."
Jerrod Wirth
said,
"certainly it can be
challenging and without doubt death could easily call upon the unfit
or unwary.
I will
say this - Based on the reports sent to me, I think
when all is said and done, the Chinese have gone out
of their way to make the Huashan climb safer.
Good for them.
That said, I think it is also
pretty obvious that in the recent past, the Huashan
climb was without a doubt an incredibly dangerous
endeavour. For a serious mountain climber,
today Huashan is no big deal. But for an
average climber, it seems like Huashan still has
more than its share of danger.
I did not know about the
mention of my Huashan story in Wikipedia until
Antoine brought it to my attention.
To save you the time of going to the site, here is what it
says:
Wikipedia article on Huashan: Rumours
of deadliness
Rumours of
the south peak being the most dangerous hiking
trail on earth seem to have risen from a story
put on the web page of a person called Rick
Archer with the title "The Deadly Huashan Hiking
Trail"[1]. The author claims it was written by
an American couple who visited the trail in
2003.
The origin of
the story is not known and is assumed by many
Hua Shan visitors to be purely fictional. The
spread and popularity of the story was aided by
many videos showing the most dangerous parts of
the trail[2][3].
In 2008 the
website author was faced with criticism on the
authenticity of the story[4], who in turn
answered: "I
wrote absolutely everything based on accounts I
found on the Internet (some of which gave
contradictory information)."
"At the time, I
never expected this particular page would be an
Internet darling for thousands of Huashan fans.".
Thus, the
story bears similarities to the KiddofSpeed
story which rose big attention on the net until
it was revealed to be fantasy, except for the
fact that Rick Archer hasn't tried to benefit
financially from the story on his site.
Nevertheless,
it should be noted, that even though Hua Shan
stairs are a popular tourist attraction and
safety equipment is provided and obligatory,
the
trail is still risky due to strong winds,
changing weather conditions and the physical
condition required to pass some parts of the
trail.
So
is my Huashan article being Swift Boated? It
sure seems that way. The Wikipedia article above was
written by Chong-Dae
Park.
So who is Chong-Dae Park? I have no idea.
And what is KiddofSpeed and what does it have to do with this? I have no idea.
And who does Chong-Dae Park represent?
I have no idea.
And how do we reach Chong-Dae Park to ask him what
makes him the expert? I have no idea.
I do know one thing - even my critic Chong-Dae Park
agrees the trail is risky. I will leave it at
that.
Rick Archer
July 8, 2008
dance@ssqq.com
|
 |
|
FURTHER THOUGHTS IN RESPONSE TO ANTOINE'S
LETTER
Rick
Archer, July 11, 2008
|
As I stated previously, I did
not respond directly to Antoine's first email to me
(See Letter Eight directly above).
He was so vicious in his initial email I did not see
the point in wasting one single minute of my time
debating his angry words.
But I did carefully read what he had to say.
Although I deeply resented Antoine's style, I was
honest enough to look beyond his harsh words and try
to learn from his points.
Stung by Antoine's bitter words, I was determined to
examine my own story to make sure it was as accurate
as I could humanly make it. As Nietzsche would
say, "that which does not kill us makes us
stronger."
Antoine said
three things that caught my eye.
1)
I don't need to point out to you
that your article is not very academic.
Up to now, I wasn't
aware that anyone expected my article to be
academic.
But Antoine did have a point - now that my
Huashan story had become the second
most-read article on the Internet, I
probably did have a responsibility to get my
story right. So although I did not
like his style, I agreed that if I was going
to claim that Huashan was dangerous, perhaps
even deadly, I should make it clear to the
readers how I arrived at these conclusions.
As a result, I spent the better part of two
days writing the section in
yellow above where I debated with
Antoine as to how safe or dangerous Huashan
really is. Then I spent a third day
writing this section as well.
Antoine expected me to take his criticisms
like a man. I hope it is
obvious that I have gone to considerable
trouble to defend my positions carefully.
|
 |
2) I am not
attacking you, but your work.
That's
what
scholars
do, except that now I really have a good
reason to do it.
I
understand that my approach to pass my point
may sound harsh to you, but you must
understand the military background I come
from.
Considering Antoine's
curious writing style, I was a bit taken
aback to see that he considered himself a
scholar.
Well, Antoine was attacking me whether he
realized it or not.
As long as he stuck to comments about the
story, he had every right to question
certain points. But when he said that
I made false claims and that
my website was false and misleading,
then it became a personal attack. I
think I had every right to feel like Antoine
was accusing me of being a liar.
Those are strong words. I do not
appreciate being called a liar.
|
3) I wonder just how many people in this world
canceled their plan to hike Huashan because of your website.
How many
people in this world have canceled
their plans to hike Huashan based on
my website?
Now that is a good question.
It never occurred to me before that
people around the world might be
making their decisions to visit
Huashan based on my words.
So I thought carefully about the
'right and wrong' of my Huashan
story.
Ethically-speaking, what would
anyone expect of me?
|
 |
The first thing any reader would expect
would be for me to tell the truth as I see
it.
My
conscience is clear on that one. I
tell the truth as I see it.
And I
publish un-doctored pictures to support
my claims.
The second thing any
reader would expect would be for me to point
out the places where I am unsure of the
truth.
On April 21,
2008, I wrote a carefully-worded
message that clearly
stated everything I say is based on
second-hand information, some of which
is contradictory.
On July 7, 2008, in response to
Antoine's first letter, I wrote a second
warning message
that I placed at the very top of this
page. In this message, I
acknowledged my own short-comings.
Here is a brief excerpt:
For now, let me briefly address the concerns of my critics
before continuing. I think it is important to note I have
never personally climbed Huashan or had any direct
experience of the place. My critics have every right
to use this fact as proof that I don't know what I am
talking about. I fully acknowledge the
chance exists that perhaps my critics are correct.
Maybe the Huashan climb is indeed a lot safer than I give it
credit for.
The third thing any
reader would expect would be for me to
publish letters, pictures and links to
videos that are relevant to my Huashan story
whether they support my position or
contradict it.
I think
anyone who has scanned the complete
Huashan page realizes I adhere to this
policy. Not only have I published
letters that point out my limitations
(e.g. Antoine's first letter), I publish
letters from people who have actually
climbed Huashan. In addition, I
provide links to places where people can
obtain further information.
Finally, the fourth thing
any reader would expect would be for me to
make changes in my original position should
I see fit.
I have made
several changes to my original story.
1 - The simple changes were to change my
North Peak mistake back to the South
Peak. I originally correctly
identified the 'South Peak' as the
location of the dangerous hike, but
changed it when Andre Hycenko's letter
said "North Peak". I think
I misunderstood what Andre wrote and made a small
mistake. Since
Antoine challenged me on getting my
Peaks right, I switched it back.
2 - I changed the nationality of one of
the videos from Chinese (incorrect) to
Japanese (correct).
3 - In order to help people who were
confused by Frank and Laura's story, I
published letters from Andre Hycenko,
Robin Esrock, and Christoph Rehage plus
links to videos that make it clear that
'Changkong Zhandao', aka the Floating in
Air plank walk considered to be the most
dangerous part of the Huashan Climb, is
OPTIONAL and NOW HAS SAFETY FEATURES as
well
4 - Finally I took steps to soften my
original position on Huashan by
publishing statements such as these:
1- I fully
acknowledge the chance exists that
perhaps my critics are correct.
Maybe the Huashan climb is indeed a
lot safer than I give it credit for.
2-
I will
say this - Based on the reports sent to me, I think
when all is said and done, the Chinese have gone out
of their way to make the Huashan climb safer.
Good for them.
SUMMARY
As far as I am
concerned, in response to Antoine's first
letter and the Wikipedia reference, I did as
much as I possibly could to be fair to the
Huashan situation. Three days is a lot
of time to spend on this topic, but if the
World is planning to visit, I suppose I owe
people the fairest story I am capable of
writing.
I do not know if my actions were
sufficiently scholarly or
academic to satisfy Antoine, but
I certainly hope so.
Rick Archer
July 10, 2008
dance@ssqq.com
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Letter Nine:
Antoine Returns July
2008
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-----Original Message-----
From: Antoine L
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 10:14 AM
To: Rick Archer
Subject: RE: Huashan
Good day Mr. Archer:
It is unfortunate that I noticed
today that you had posted my email
online onto your website.
The main reason I
had chosen to send you an email was
especially for the reason that I did not
wish my comments to be published online.
Whether or not you have judged my email
to be offensive, it is not ethical of
you to publish my words on to your
website.
In my first email, I had no thought it
necessary to include the standard
warning. Please take note of it and
remedy to the situation.
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 |
Assassin
One
who kills, or attempts to
kill, by surprise or secret
assault; one who
treacherously attempts to
murder anyone who is
unprepared for defense.
Sniper
A skilled military
shooter detailed to spot and
pick off enemy soldiers from
a concealed place, then
retreats before a
counterattack can be
mustered.
To attack a person or
a person's work with
petulant or snide criticism,
esp. anonymously or from a
safe distance.
|
|
RICK ARCHER RESPONDS
TO ANTOINE'S SECOND
LETTER
July 11, 2008
|
If I seem angry in
my
response, you would
be correct. Let me
explain.
For the record, I
keep up a daily
international
correspondence not
only for this page,
but several other
pages on my website.
In my ten years of
dealing with
correspondence from people
in all countries,
Antoine's first
letter has the
distinction of being
the single most
hostile message I
have ever received.
Yes, I have heard
from people who
disagree with me,
but no one writes to
a complete stranger
in the manner that
Antoine addressed
me. I answer
15,000 emails a
year, but I can only think of
one other
letter
even remotely as
negative as
Antoine's first
letter.
And what
was Antoine so upset
about? It
wasn't like I was
claiming the
Holocaust didn't
exist. Antoine
was arguing over a
hiking trail located on a
remote mountain
7,000 miles away.
Was it really worth
this kind of fuss?
That said, I have
never received a
letter as strange as
Antoine's second
letter. His
'you have no right
to publish my
letters' email was
downright bizarre.
Everyone should know
by now
if you put something
out in cyberspace,
it may just come
back to haunt you.
It was Antoine's
complete U-Turn that
made his second
email so shocking.
In like a lion, out
like a lamb.
Stand up and
deliver, but now I
quiver.
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 |
Just
days after bravely calling
me out for my "false
and misleading claims",
Antoine wanted his powerful
pro-Huashan message removed
from my web site.
Furthermore, using his
scholarly, highly academic
approach, Antoine pointed
out
"you
kept the erroneous article standing as it was.
In my
mind, this is a fail. And you still haven't remedy to it"
Antoine even thought goading
me a little might make me
see the error of my ways.
"You made a big mistake when
writing your article on huashan, well swallow up your pride
and do something about it."
Indeed, for someone who was
so sure of himself that he
challenged me to
"take the job to hand like a man",
Antoine
seemed to lack the
determination
to continue to make his
point.
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 |
Gee,
if someone really believed
in what they wrote, wouldn't
most people be thrilled to
have their nemesis give them a forum
to present their
ideas? Wouldn't you
expect Antoine to show some
appreciation that I accepted
his challenge to debate the
issue?
He called me out and
I answered. I updated
my entire article. It took some
serious time and effort on my part, but
I responded to every point
he raised. I even
softened some of my original
comments. Aren't
people usually happy to get
what they asked for?
Well, not Antoine.
Now that I had
invested 20 hours of
my time spread over three days
to respond to his
negative allegations, Antoine
suddenly got cold feet. He turned around and completely
abandoned the scholarly
debate he had dared me to
participate in.
For the record, I have no
idea who this man is, where
he lives or what started him
on his "Free Huashan"
tangent to begin with.
But considering the passion
of his crusade to defend the
honor of Huashan against my
uninformed prejudice, I
would have expected him to
at least continue the
argument a little longer,
yes? Most fights
aren't won in the first
skirmish.
Guess not. Antoine did
a Heckle And Hyde routine.
Once Antoine realized I was
willing to fight back, Sniper Antoine turned into Mr.
Hit and Run.
|
It's like they
say in deer hunting... it isn't as
much fun when the deer start
shooting back.
 |
Antoine was pretty outspoken in his
first letter. For someone this
aggressive, you wouldn't expect him
to pack his bags and hit the Retreat
Button at the first sign of
resistance. Indeed, for
someone so proud of his vaunted
military background (mentioned
twice), he sure gave up easy.
If I didn't know any better, I would
guess that Antoine was disillusioned
to discover I was more than willing
to accept his offer to debate the
issue. That is when he
realized it is a lot easier to
dish it out than to take it back. So
Antoine didn't want to play anymore.
He wanted to take his emails
and go home.
From
Antoine's Second Email:
"The
main reason I had chosen to send
you an email was especially for
the reason that I did not wish
my comments to be published
online."
|
Oh, really?
Funny, I read his first email pretty
carefully. I must have
missed that statement!
I think Antoine was so busy
insulting me and pointing out all my
mistakes, he forgot to tell me that
he wanted me to take his abuse
laying down. Hey, Rick,
let's keep my insults between the
two of us!
So
what exactly do you suppose
Antoine L is worried about?
I will tell
you what Antoine is worried
about - he is afraid the
entire planet is going to
see what an idiot he is.
Case
in point. Antoine is
the only guy on Earth who
can read an entire page of
published emails
- Andre Hycenko, Jarrod
Wirth, Robin Esrock,
Christopher Rehage, etc, et
al, ad infinitum, ad nauseam
- and not comprehend
that I publish emails sent
to me. A
little slow on the uptake,
yes?
Then Antoine has the nerve to
come whining to me with a
statement as pathetic as
this.
"In my first email, I had
no thought it necessary
to include the standard
warning. Please take
note of it and remedy to
the situation."
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 |
Bad news,
Antoine, your emails will remain
posted right here along with any
other incoherent message you care to
send me.
Maybe in your next email you could
cite a legal case, Mothra v.
Godzilla or something like
that, which would help me understand
what entitles you to shoot your big
mouth off and not have to face the
consequences.
In the meantime, I suppose you will
stay bitter towards me for not
kowtowing to your whims. Be
that as it may, I have some news for
you.
You
should realize if I had published
your full name (as I had every legal
right to do), this story would put a
permanent Google stain on your
reputation so deep it would follow
you wherever you went for the rest
of your life.
So be grateful
I showed mercy on you and
kept you anonymous. Hopefully
you weren't dumb enough to tell all
your cyber friends about the tough
letter you sent to the guy who wrote
the story about Huashan. But
that's your problem.
Now tell your handler to take your
keyboard away before you go and
write something even more stupid
than you already have.
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Letter Ten:
Commentary on Antoine's Accusations
-----Original Message----- From: J Mei Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 8:31 PM To: dance@ssqq.com Subject: More on Huashan
Just thought this might help with
the arguments your article has
attracted -- the trail, and
the plank road in particular, was
given a major refurbishing by local tourism
authorities in fall, 2005.
That's
also when all the safety harnesses
were brought in. So you
are quite
right in guessing that
conditions have changed.
I imagine
recent visitors
may be quite unaware of how
different things were before 2005.
The climb
was very dangerous.
It's
their
ignorance, not your disinformation!
|
Letter Eleven:
The Mount Huashan Climb is
difficult, but not deadly.
(Rick
Archer's Note: This 4- page
letter from Michael Sanderson is the
best eyewitness account yet.
Mr.
Sanderson sent it to me with the
express purpose of clearing up
inaccuracies and giving a more
accurate assessment of the risk
involved in the climb.
We
are all in his debt for taking the
time to write such a detailed
letter.)
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Sanderson
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 10:35
AM
Subject: my trip to Huashan
Dear Mr. Archer,
First, I want to say how much I
enjoy your site, and how much I
appreciate that it exists. Six
months ago, I read its stories and
saw the pictures while planning a
trip with my family. (I live in
Guangdong Province in the south of
China, and am teaching English, now
for a hotel.) If I hadn't seen your
site, I surely would not have been
inspired to climb the mountain.
Reminiscing about my trip and
visiting your site again, I'm sorry
to see that there has been
controversy surrounding it. I don't
claim to be a Huashan expert, but I
hope I can add some clarity to a few
points based on my recent
experience. I'm also including some
photos I took and explanations of
what's in them.
My pictures of the Huashan climb can
be seen on my
web site.
As for my
opinion about the controversy, that
I will save for the end.
I cannot speak to what the mountain
looked like before the refurbishment
in 2005. I should also note that due
to limited time, I took the cable
car halfway up. And while the
couple's account was gripping and
inspired me to climb the mountain,
for a few reasons I don't think the
account could have happened like
they said. But that's not why I'm
writing. I want to share my
experience climbing the amount,
provide some information and
pictures, and encourage other people
to do so if they have the
opportunity. My apologies if you
already are clear on a lot of this.
Because the mountain is approached
from the north, the north-south
orientation of the mountain is
continually confusing--it seems that
everyone has their peaks confused.
On all good guide maps, up=south. So
whether you start climbing from the
ground or take the cable car, you
first reach the North Peak area.
This is the lowest peak. The assents
to the North Peak go from ground
level. One goes under the cable car
route and is insanely steep. The
other is apparently plenty arduous
and dramatic itself, but I can't
speak to that from experience.
From the North Peak area, there is
only one steep, narrow route to the
rest of the mountain. This is
through the Heavenly Steps/Sun and
Moon Cliff area. The Heavenly Steps
area and the Sun and Moon Cliff area
do contain some areas where steps
are cut so vertically as to almost
be ladders; some other places are
like this as well. These areas,
however, are not over cliffs. so
while someone could easily slip,
they would be hurt, but not killed.
This continues to the Black Dragon
ridge, as you describe. The Black
Dragon Ridge is about one-meter
wide, with sharp cliffs on both
sides, and not a curve or break to
stop a fall backwards. There are
chain handrails along both sides,
and a steady stream of people goes
up and down both ways.
After that, you reach an
often-overlooked area around the
so-called Center or Middle Peak.
This area is in fact relatively
flat, and nicely forested. It lies
between the East, South, and West
peaks. There aren't as many people
around, and stone paths go off in
different directions. As you are
already very high, going to the
different areas requires as much
walking as climbing steps. For
reasons of time, I didn't go to to
the East or West peaks, but towards
the south edge of the mountain. Here
is the highest point, the South
Peak.
I'm sorry to report that the final
assent to the South Peak is not
particularly treacherous. The stone
steps are not as steep or exposed as
the Black Dragon Ridge, and the
ground is level enough for the
forest to continue right up to the
top. There are a few steep places,
but it's nothing compared to
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