Huashan Letters
Home Up

   
Danger Home  Russian Highway from Hell Bolivian Highway of Death  Guoliang Tunnel
Mt Huashan Hiking Trail Mt Huashan Letters El Camino del Rey


HUASHAN LETTERS

Forward Note from Rick Archer
July 07, 2008

Welcome to the Huashan Letters page! 

As you will see, I have received quite a bit of correspondence regarding my Huashan story.  Most of these letters are from people who either wished to thank me for posting the article or to share further information about Mt Huashan. 

However, not all the letters have been positive. As you continue to read the Huashan Letters, I think it is important that you understand up front that the authenticity of this page is under attack. In July 2008, my original story received a fair amount of criticism from two sources.  These were people who did not agree the Huashan climb is dangerous at all.  I assume they were worried that my article was giving the entire world the wrong impression of Huashan and unnecessarily discouraging the faint-hearted from visiting in the process. 

One person wrote a vicious letter (the criticism is listed in Letter Eight below). The other person went to the trouble of listing my name in Wikipedia along with the claim that I have deliberately misled people as to the danger of Mt Huashan.  As you might gather, I didn't appreciate either attack one bit. 

However, I did at least sense an indirect compliment.  Both critics realized that the SSQQ Huashan Page contains the most information regarding Huashan of any website on the Internet.  Due to its elevated position on Internet Search Engines, this page comes up to practically any person on Planet Earth who is curious about Huashan.  Consequently the criticism made me aware that I have a responsibility to get the story right.

For now, let me briefly address the concerns of my critics before continuing. This will allow all readers a better perspective.  I think it is important to note I have never personally climbed Huashan or had any direct experience of the place.  Therefore my critics have every right to use this fact as proof that I don't know what I am talking about.  I fully acknowledge the chance exists that perhaps my critics are correct.  Perhaps the Huashan climb is indeed a lot safer than I give it credit for. 

Please note there have also been three major developments since my original story in January 2007. 

First, several people who have actually made the climb have written to report there are many new safety features in effect. So perhaps it is true that some of the danger has been removed since I originally published this story (you will be able to read these letters further below).

Second, there is an amazing amount of Huashan pictures that can be found on the Internet as of July 2008.  When I first wrote my story in January 2007, there were only a limited number of pictures and I published practically every one I could find.  I don't know if this proliferation is related to lifting the ban on cameras at Huashan or simply the growth of the Internet or both, but it means you no longer have to depend on my Huashan web page to find good Huashan pictures.  Since I based my assessment of danger largely on the basis of the pictures, more pictures means more accuracy. 

Third, when I wrote my original story in January 2007, I could discover only one single 30 second video posted on the Internet.  That's it - a SINGLE VIDEO.  Since then, that situation has changed greatly.  In May 2008, I discovered there are now quite a few videos related to the Huashan climb.  These videos give a first-hand account of the experience that enhance the material that I have posted on my web site (I will list the location of these videos later on this page).  I doubt seriously these videos are 'fake'.  These videos will allow you to make your own judgment about the danger of the Huashan climb.  In other words, the true picture of Huashan is being brought more clearly into focus.

Now let's begin our review of the Letters.


Letter One:  Andre Hycenko's Climb at Mt Huashan
January 2008

Rick Archer's Note:  In January 2008, I was searching the Internet for more recent pictures of Mt. Huashan.  Buried deep on the twentieth page of a Google search, I discovered an excellent account of the Mt. Huashan experience complete with pictures. 

For people who are contemplating this hike, I think Mr. Hycenko's story will be quite illuminating.

The following account was written by Andre Hycenko

Drizzle, an early start and a 3 hour overcrowded mini-bus ride is what started a day that i will never forget. Mt. Huashan, nearly 2km's high with 5 main peaks is an image most common in traditional Chinese paintings. Most paintings of mountains are most likely those of Mt. Huashan.

Starting at the bottom, i joined a group of 5 Chinese university students. One spoke vary basic English and i can basically try and speak basic Chinese. Later these students fizzled down to 2 as Mt. Huashan is very physically demanding.

Up we went, up and up and up. So many steps, some really steep and others were wet and slippery as we were climbing inside a cloud most of the morning. There are many temples, massive boulders and countless waterfalls along the 4 hour trek that eventually took us to the lowest peak. This is where you can pay $15AUS and get here by cable car in under 5 minutes. That's cheating and the hike ended up being well worth it.

From having hardly no-one during the first few hours to having hundreds of people, fit and full of energy in-front of us felt a little touristy, but we kept going. Legs fatigued but starting to get into a rhythm, we scrambled past the bulk to try and reach every peak this mountain has to offer in the 4 hours of daylight we had left.

The cable-car peak, North, South, East and West peaks, all having their own dramatic cliffs and flora where they were all breathtaking and unique. Climbing "The Dragon Ridge", 1 metre wide and about 300 metres long with steps, handrails and 2-way traffic in-between two peaks is one of the best views i have ever seen.

Climbing to the North Peak, the furthest and highest one out of the 5 was a momentous effort. Once again there were so many steps. I have never been this high before and seeing clouds below you moving around and the sun beating down on you made me feel on top of the world, and hey, i was!

In-between the West and North Peak, is a path called 'Changkongzhandao' (aka the cliff side plank path). This path is pretty much the whole reason for me coming to Mt. Huashan. Originally seeing photos of this awesome sight in an email when i was working, i decided i had to come and take a look for myself. The path leads to a small lookout where it is about 70 metres in length. Once you reach the end, you just come back and continue on your way. It is a cliff face. 90 degrees. 

To get across, they have whacked large nails into the side of the cliff and placed planks of wood over the top for you to cross. The path is about 40cm wide (16 inches)! There is also a chain nailed to the rock for you to hold onto as you make your way across.

For $5AUS you can choose to hire a safety harness (you would be absolutely stupid, i mean insane not to have one). Half of the path are planks of wood and the other half are foot holes carved into the rock.

As the people i was with were too scared to go, i went alone taking the photos myself trying not to drop the camera with my hands shaking as if i had just drunk 20 cups of coffee.

I took my time and on the way back another brave bloke was coming towards me to do the same walk. I asked him to take a photo of me and he explained to me that the ultimate photo to take on this path is a pose where you lean back facing the cliff wall (because of your harness), your body 45 degrees, relying 100% on your harness with both arms waving in the air! The ground by the way is 1km down.

The best i could do was lean 45 degrees over the edge but my hands were stuck firmly to the strap connecting my body to the wall. I couldn't let go, my brain was telling me "Go on, do it", but my hands wouldn't budge. Now i see myself as an adventurous person willing to try anything, but this was the first time in my short years where my brain and body disagreed with one another and it felt really strange.

I hit my limit where i had no idea what my limit was up until now. And I'm actually quite glad knowing it's hanging off a cliff relying on a piece of metal and strap, 1km up on a plank of wood, now that can't happen too often, can it?  There is a saying 'Feel the fear and do it anyway'. That was actually shuffling across those wooden planks.

The adrenalin rush i got from that and hiking Mt. Huashan lasted all the way back down to the cable car where it was 7:00pm and the perfect time to leave for a 3 hour bus ride back to Xi'an.

Mt Huashan, 5 peaks and 5 blisters on my feet, coincidence, i think not.

Rick Archer's Note:  Mr. Hycenko has many more Huashan pictures on his own web page

Andre Hycenko's Climb at Mt Huashan

June 4, 2008
Follow-up to Andre's initial story

Rick Archer's Note: Six months after I published the Andre's account of his climb, I received this follow-up email from him.

-----Original Message-----
From: Andre Hycenko
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 10:23 PM
To: Rick Archer
Subject: Mt Huashan Story

Hi Rick,
I was just reading your replies to you Mt Huashan stories and I'm surprised of the people who went there and are saying a few points that i mentioned are untrue.

Everything i wrote is what i experienced and i have no reason to lie. As well as they would have had different experiences to what i had.
As a result i would like to make clearer about what the plank path is to help further travelers make a decision to go there. If you wish to publish this you have my permission.
To add to my story on Mt Huashan (also known as Mt. Hua and Mt. Huangshan - i don't know why there are so many similar names) - the plank path is an option where you don't have to walk it if you don't want to. It doesn't connect to anything except a small lookout where you see the same thing walking along the planks.

There are security cameras along the way to make sure you haven't fallen off as well as to take your photo if you want to pay for it. The harness goes all the way from the start to the end where you have 2 clips. When you reach a point where they have secured the safety wire, you unclip one clip then attach the second. Once you have done so, attach it to the next then keep going. The whole length is about 70 metres one way (from memory), then you come back. Half of the section is planks of wood and the other is foot holes carved into the rock. I had to take the photos myself by using a mini tripod and placing it on some steps then scuttling back to position myself.

The friends i had made were too scared to attempt it. I found it a huge thrill and an experience i will never forget. The walls of the cliff aren't exactly 90 degrees but close enough. Simply speaking, if you fell you would die.

With the rest of the walk, I went in Spring 2007 where the weather was great. In the morning i walked through a cloud on the way up where it is paved all the way, but there are narrow steep steps that are slippery due to it being wet because of the mist and can be dangerous for those not as fit or not careful enough. I walked from the very bottom to all the peaks in one day. A lot of people choose to take the cable car up where once you are up there it is never as impressive if you didn't complete the hard slog in getting there in the first place. Like many other walks around the world another example is Machu Picchu in Peru, would not have been as impressive if you don't complete the Inca Trail beforehand (Please note that this is my opinion).

Mt. Huashan is one of the best walks i have ever done and i strongly urge for people to go there (even you Rick) as the walk and scenery is absolutely breathtaking. The plank walk is just a bonus where i would have the same opinion about these peaks even if i didn't complete the plank path.

My blog that i have written was initially meant for just friends and family to let them know what i am up to. Explaining exactly what i was up to would have been boring and a waste of my time as I'm on holiday and didn't want to spend all my time on the Internet. Since then i have learnt many people are reading my blog stories and ask me a lot of questions about them which i am happy to answer.

What i have written about is my experience where everyone will experience something different. The best way to finding out about Mt Huashan is to go there yourself.

RICK ARCHER'S NOTE: I find it very peculiar that Andre would have to defend his story.  It is incredible to hear him report that people have questioned his eye-witness account of the Huashan climb.  There is not one suspicious bone in my being to question his account.  I personally accept everything he has said without hesitation. 


Letter Two:  Christoph Rehage
February 2008

-----Original Message-----
From: Christoph Rehage
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 8:34 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: huashan article

Dear Rick,

I have climbed Huashan yesterday, and I found your article to be misleading.

- The dangerous plank walk is in fact a tourist attraction where you have to get off the path that leads to the South Peak, then enter a large temple door, pay 30rmb as an entry fee for the plank walk, and then get safety equipment strapped around your waist.

I asked the people in charge if you could take the plank walk to ascend South Peak, but they told me the only place it actually leads to is a viewing platform. So, if your sources make it sound like they were forced to take the plank walk to get to where they wanted to go, well that's obviously not true.

Instead, they had to get off the path, enter a temple, purchase a ticket, and then with safety equipment they were allowed to play around on the plank walk.  (Rick Archer Note:  Including Andre Hycenko's account in the previous letter, Mr. Rehage's account means that two different people say the "Boardwalk" is a one-way street, not a dangerous through way as was first thought). 

- the sky ladder didn't seem dangerous. It's said to be 90 degrees, but in reality it's not. There are handrails everywhere in any difficult part of the trail. Old people and children can climb up Huashan, and they do.

- in spite of the heavy snow this country has been experiencing in the past few weeks, about 90% of the path is in top-condition and free of snow and ice.

That's about the main points that I found misleading.

It sounds like you've never been up on Huashan (RA note:  Chris is correct - I haven't been to Huashan), which is a pity, because it is really amazingly beautiful. I started climbing at midnight and got to the East Peak before sunrise, and boy that was totally awesome!

I don't know about the motivation of your two sources as to why would they give misleading information. My only guess is that they're trying to make themselves sound like they are the brave ones for getting through dangerous situations like that.

But really it's nothing at all.

Cheers dude,

---chris---


Letter Three:  Jarrod Wirth
April 2008

-----Original Message-----
From: Jarrod Wirth
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 4:46 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Mt Huashan climber

Hi Rick,
I've just returned from China and climbed Mt Huashan while there. A friend learnt I was heading to China & sent me pictures of Huashan. After a google search I relied on the information provided at your site. There's also some great Huashan videos on 'youtube'. I would ask you to staple the following to your page as I'd like to add some information for those who may follow. Mt Huashan is a great climb and nowhere near as difficult as your site suggests.

I wouldn't advise you head there unless you can at least speak Mandarin. You could go cold turkey with a phrase book or pay a translator. With a translator you may find they want to rush, get you up there and back ASAP so they can hook another paying customer to rush along before moving on to the next. Don't trust your translator, if you don't use one good for you but if you don't speak Mandarin you might as well act like an idiot savant and expect to be ripped off. You can get a bus from Xian, it costs next to nothing however you might end up losing all your money. Pick pockets working in groups of 5 to 9 target buses, they get on and then get off after relieving everyone on the bus of their valuables. For US$20 you can hire a government approved 'foreigners' taxi at most hotels in Xian, the taxi takes you there and brings you back the same day, this is a good option.

Getting to the top is simple, when you buy your entrance ticket, you get a map, use it. You can walk from the base along a number of starting points or catch the chair lift which takes you to the North Peak. There are many people along the way trying to earn a buck, they'll beckon you to follow them to small restaurants, stalls, historical sites or just up the garden path then charge you for the privilege and directions back. Use your map and go your own way. As stated you can walk from the base but if doing so best prepare for the possibility of an overnight stay on the mountain. There is a guest house between the East and South Peaks, a rough hostel style accommodation where you can purchase water, dried sundries and small rooms supplied with warm bedding. The mountain views to the south from these are incredibly good however during peak season I imagine you must have to pre-book. To get up and back in a day take the chairlift, it takes you to the North Peak, the North Peak is definitely not deadly, but from there you can hike to East, Centre, South and West Peak all within a 6 to 7 hour time frame.

This is a great walk and I highly recommend it, certainly it can be challenging and without doubt death could easily call upon the unfit or unwary. However you don't need to spend the night before 'making peace with yourself' in case you don't come back. If you're going keep in mind that you're going to have a really good climb on a really beautiful mountain, because that's what it is.

Rick let me know if you'd like some of my pictures and I'd be happy to forward some of them for you. Many thanks, and for those crazy enough to embark on the adventure, good climbing!


QUESTIONS ARISE ABOUT INCONSISTENCIES IN THE HUASHAN STORY

Letter Four:  Roslyn
April 2008

-----Original Message-----
From: Roslyn B
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 11:09 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Huashan Hiking Trail

Wow. Thanks for sharing those pictures. That has to be the most incredible scenery I've ever seen!

I did some looking around online though and it seems that the peaks are switched. Even on your diagrams, you have arrows pointing the gondola that you said goes to the North peak, and on the diagram the arrow goes to the South peak. Google Earth seemed to confirm this, that most of the photographs were from the South Peak.

I've never been there, so I have no personal experience, but looking at the maps and reading the stories, it does make much more sense if the dangerous trail led to the South Peak. Thank you so very much for researching this story and making it available on the internet. It gave me a very entertaining afternoon.      Roslyn

RICK ARCHER'S REPLY:
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Archer
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 12:08 PM
To: Roslyn B
Subject: RE: Huashan Hiking Trail

That’s interesting that you point out that the peaks have been switched. When I first wrote the article, I had them reversed in the way you suggest, Roslyn. The South Peak was the dangerous peak.  But then I read a letter from Andre Hycenko that seemed to contradict my previous understanding of how the peaks are laid out so I went back and switched them around.  It took me an hour to rewrite my description!

I will tell you the truth:  I have never been there and have written everything based on other people’s accounts.  If you clear up the Peak mystery, by all means let me know. I prefer to be right even if it means changing my story.

In the meantime, I will assume that Mr. Hycenko meant to say "South" and I will switch the names back.


Letter Five:  Steve

February 2008

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve P
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 2:38 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: huashan article

Hi Rick, I found this page to be very interesting and shows that there is still a lot of world out there that most people do not know about. I am writing to just ask a question.

Of the stories and the pictures , the one picture that shows Mr. Hycenko on the plank walk and the pictures of the plank walkers from the Frank and Laura story, why are safety cables there for Mr. Hycenko and not on the pictures that you used in the couples story?

Did something change between 2003 and 2008?  Where the pictures you found older than the stories and since then a safety precaution was implemented?

Still an exciting place to visit if one can.
 

RICK ARCHER'S REPLY:

-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Archer
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 7:17 PM
To: Steve P
Subject: RE: huashan article

I have never been to Huashan. Back in late 2006, a friend sent me an email with many of the exciting pictures published on my site.

Fascinated by the pictures, I then did some Google work and came up with several stories written by people who had been to Huashan. The most exciting story (Frank and Laura) seemed the perfect accompaniment to the amazing pictures.

However, in regards to the “boardwalk area” that you have asked about, I think parts of the original account I published were misleading. They did not make it clear this plank was a dead end in their story. Since Mr. Hycenko’s letter, I received another one from Christoph Rehage that asserts that gangplank is merely a tourist attraction and not a dangerous invitation to death.  In other words, you can bypass this plank area if you wish.

So to answer your question, I am beginning to wonder if parts of the Frank and Laura story are inaccurate.  Another explanation is that something has changed since the 2003 story of Frank and Laura.

I would trust Andre Hycenko!  His pictures are pretty convincing.  I added Andre's picture and personal account to my story even though I knew someone like you would eventually point out the contradiction. Thank you for keeping me on my toes.
 


A NOTE TO HUASHAN READERS FROM RICK ARCHER
April 21, 2008

Now that you have read Steve and Roslyn's letters above and my replies, let me take this opportunity to completely and totally admit my article about Huashan is not up to the standards of National Geographic.

Over Christmas vacation in December 2006, I wrote stories about four different locations - the Russian Highway from Hell, the Bolivian Highway of Death, the Chinese Guoliang Tunnel, and of course the Mt Huashan Hiking Trail.

The problem is that I have never been anywhere near any of these four locations in my life

I wrote absolutely everything based on accounts I found on the Internet (some of which gave contradictory information)
.

I do not mind admitting some of what I wrote might be inaccurate.  Frankly speaking, I wrote the best story I could based on the information that was available at the time. 

I took one look at the pictures and concluded the climb appeared to be dangerous.  I have a right to my opinion, by the way.  Then an internet search turned up accounts that confirmed my initial conclusion.  In other words, this is a "Research Paper", not an "Experience Paper." 

I have not "misled" anyone.  Everyone knows that first-hand accounts are more reliable.  I have gone to great lengths to explain who I am, why I wrote the story, and to point out my own limitations.  I certainly don't think anyone who reads these Huashan letters will think I am deliberately deceiving the public. 

Furthermore, a
s you can tell from the total absence of advertisements on this web page, I am not trying to make a single cent off of my web site.  What possible motive would I have to tell lies about a place I have never been to and could care less about?

Like most people, I have plenty of axes to grind - serious stuff like global warming, overpopulation, famine and genocide - as well as less serious stuff like traffic congestion, oil prices, spam, and unwanted sales calls on my cell phone. 

But I assure all readers that spreading horrible Internet lies about Mt Huashan is not on my agenda.


ACCURACY OF RICK ARCHER'S HUASHAN STORY

So why wasn't my original story totally accurate? 

Considering at that time I was writing for a very limited audience (my own Newsletter readers in Houston, Texas, USA), I did not think it was important to be perfect. 

I
n the case of Huashan, a friend forwarded me pictures of the Huashan climbing trail on November 27, 2006.  I was so amazed by how dangerous the pictures looked, I could not wait to share them with my friends.  So I published my Huashan story in January 2007 with the specific intention of sharing the pictures with my Newsletter readers here at my dance studio in Houston.

I admit my original standard for accuracy was not set very high.  

Like the game of horseshoes, I figured 'close to correct' was good enough.

At the time, I never expected this particular page would become an Internet darling for thousands of Huashan fans around the globe.

Now that people have begun to ask about discrepancies in my story, I am more than willing to set the record straight.  Whenever somebody corrects me, I fix the problem.  For example, I erroneously listed an excellent Huashan video as "Chinese" in origin.  People pointed out it was actually "Japanese."   So I corrected my mistake.

Other people say I have the North-South direction of the Peaks mixed up.  Okay, I believe them.  Unfortunately no one has come forward to say what the correct direction is.  But when someone does help me get it right, I will make the correction immediately.  I am more than willing to set the record straight. 

However the real headache is determining the exact level of 'DANGER' on Huashan.
First of all, this is a subjective issue.  Young men like Andre Hycenko who climb mountains on a regular basis are not going to be intimidated by Huashan.  But an elderly couple out for a hike might end up scared out of their wits, especially if it starts to rain or snow!  Those steep steps are brutal if they are iced over!

Second, I am forced to deal with contradictory evidence.  Let me give you a clear example.  Look at the Red Shirt
picture posted on the right with the "be careful" caption.  Study it.  This is one of the pictures enclosed in Milt's email.  If this picture was sent to you, would you see evidence of DANGER just like I did?  Does that look safe to you?  Would you let your kid or your elderly parent walk on that?  No way!

Furthermore, do you see a harness on that man in the red shirt above?  No!

Now please compare the Red Shirt picture with the one of Andre Hycenko below.  It looks like Andre is traveling on the same section as the man in red

Yes, Andre has a harness, but not Mr. Red.   Mr. Red Shirt has no harness!

"Be very careful when
passing someone going in the
opposite direction."

Please study the picture of Andre some more.  Andre's walkway appears to possibly dead end about 20/30 feet to his right.  Now look at the other picture with Mr. Red Shirt above.  Does it look like that set of planks hits a dead end?  I don't know the correct answer off hand, but it appears to me that it continues to the right. 

Now read this passage from the Frank and Laura story:

"Yes, there were chains to hang onto, but there was ice and there was wind and the margin for error was very small.  Those planks could not have been more than two feet wide.  Exposed to the elements, I wondered just how safe they were.  (Note: This ramp had a name: Floating-in-Air Road. But I called it Boardwalk)"

Not only do the pictures make this area look dangerous, but so does this account.  Since I am depending on Internet stories like this, the pictures, and the good will of people like Andre Hycenko to fill in the gaps, I am only as good as this second-hand information permits me to be. 

I have no reason to fib.  Why should I care if I got it wrong?  I have already stated that if I find a mistake in my narrative, I will correct it.  I did the best I could with the information that was available to me at the time.  If anyone reading this story can clear up any discrepancies, I invite them to share the corrections with me. 

So let me ask another question:  Do you see a harness on that person in the picture on the right?  No, of course not.   Do you see a dead end at the end of that ramp?  There may be one, but I can't see it from this angle. 

It looks like this set of planks goes through to somewhere, but Andre says it is a dead end.  Andre had a harness, but there isn't any harness here. 
This is known as a "discrepancy."  Is it a dead end or isn't it?  Why are there harnesses in one picture, but not the other two?  But Andre is busy climbing the great mountains of the world.  Do you honestly think Andre has the time to explain these discrepancies?

Here is my final point:  The main reason I do not know the complete truth about this hiking trail is because I have pictures that contradict each other!

But rather than hide my ignorance, I openly admit I am flying blind. 

LET'S PLAY A GAME!

Pretend that someone just sent you this picture in an email.  What's the first thing that comes to your mind?

My first impression was that it looks dangerous!!!

What about you?  Did you think the same thing?

I am willing to bet if you saw the same pictures I did without the benefit of any modifying evidence, you too would conclude that Huashan is unbelievably dangerous!

I said Huashan looked dangerous because that is the impression I got.  That said, if I get new pictures that indicate Huashan is a picnic walk in the park, I will add those as well.  I am not trying to tell lies about this mountain.  Otherwise I would not DELIBERATELY post contradictory information!

I have too much respect for the position I find myself in.  You see, by a series of cosmic convergences, my web page of Huashan has magically become so widely visited that it is now the second most read page on the Internet for "Huashan".   When I last looked in July 2008, Google listed my Huashan web page link in second place right below Wikipedia.  

Consequently I feel a responsibility to get the story right.  People from all over the planet are coming to me for the best stories and the best pictures of one of the most sacred places in China.  In a sense, they are depending on me to be their eyes and ears to this exciting location.  Except there is one problem....

I have no direct experience of the place!  How crazy is that?  "and a blind man shall lead them..."  

So here is my request to all visitors to this web page - if you have information to share, please step forward and do so. I am very easy to contact  dance@ssqq.com

Furthermore I am not sensitive about the discrepancy problem.  My conscience is clear because I have done the best I could given the hand that was dealt to me.  Correct me if you see an error with the understanding that all I care about is getting it right.

And while I am at it, let me take this moment to thank you for visiting my page.  I am flattered that your interest in Huashan has brought you to my site.  Now please help me get it right for the sake of all the thousands of people who will follow in your footsteps.

Rick Archer
dance@ssqq.com  

April 21, 2008


Letter Six:  Anthony regarding YouTube Videos
April 2008

-----Original Message-----
From: Anthony W
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 8:46 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Chinese hike details

Thanks for a fascinating web page. A couple comments.

"Do you see a harness?" -- that is not the question to ask. Note that in the Andre photo there is--in addition to the heavy chain--a rope or cable.

It is obvious there is no such rope or cable in the man-in-red photo.  Assuming the photos are of the same section of trail, which I accept, it seems obvious that the Chinese added a cable.

Note that the harness is attached to the cable with a carabiner. Such a carabiner would not slide over that large size chain, hence the caption ("Be very careful when passing") reflects a time when a hiker would have to reach around an on-coming climber with no firm attachment to the cliff. After the installation of the cable, one hiker could stand away from the cliff, the other scoot under him, and then one, with a firm grip on the chain in a safe stance would briefly remove the carabiner from the cable and then attach it on the other side of the oncoming man's carabiner.

Since the chains seem to be very well anchored, I think the long account by the scared American is absurd. Provided one takes care to always have a good grip on the chains, an occasional slip of a foot is of no consequence. I have seen such over-dramatic accounts of climbing the cable ladder up Half Dome in Yosemite, equally silly. If you have acrophobia or no hand strength, don't go, that's simple.

Like you, however, I have not been there.

By the way, while I was writing my message, I came upon this video on Youtube.  It shows the method of moving the carabiner(RA note: this link is listed below).
 

RICK ARCHER'S REPLY TO ANTHONY:  

Back when I was a kid, one of my favorite toys was my Chinese finger trap.  This clever device allowed you to put your finger in, but would tense up when you tried to pull your finger back out.  Only by pulling your finger out very slowly could you succeed in getting your finger back.  That was a lot of fun!

As for Frank and Laura, the mountain played a very mean trick on them.  Like the Chinese finger trap, the weather was pretty good all the way up to the top.  Then it suddenly started to rain and ice up. 

Easy one way, impossible going back - The very definition of a Chinese finger trap.  Except this time it was far more deadly. The steep, icy, slippery steps on Huashan became a veritable Chinese Mountain Trap!

Furthermore you have to remember the couple in question was in their late 50s.  Since it was raining/icing on the way down, they were really frightened.  Since I am 58, I can report that as you age, confidence in your legs and your balance diminishes.  Frank and Laura had every right to be afraid considering how bad the footing was.


I would like to thank you for the video link.  Thanks to your suggestion, I must have watched at a least a half-dozen videos. Although I am still not sure what the answers are to the discrepancies, I did get a much better feel for the hike.

I still think the climb is dangerous!  But if you pay attention, I imagine it is safe enough for someone in good health.


However, don't ever lose sight of the fact that you are also dependent on people around you.  One serious accident at Huashan was attributed to someone falling from above who hit several people on the way down and made them fall too.


RICK ARCHER'S NOTE: 
Thanks to Anthony's suggestion about the You Tube video, I discovered there were quite a few other videos on YouTube related to the Mount Huashan hiking trail.  Unfortunately, the absolute best video was narrated in Japanese (not Chinese!) plus it had Japanese sub-titles.   I found myself trying to remember if I had any friends who spoke Japanese who might translate it for me and clear up some of the confusion.  Oh well.

Even after watching all six videos for about half an hour,  I felt both enlightened and yet still mystified by the entire story. 

Here were my impressions:

DISCREPANCIES REMAIN INTACT - In at least two videos, I could have sworn I saw people inching their way across narrow boards without any safety equipment. 

BE CAREFUL - There is no doubt in my mind there are some very steep, dangerous places on this climb.  As you watch people climb, you can see they are clearly paying very close attention to what they are doing.  Each step is deliberate with eyes open wide to make sure the step has been successful before transferring weight. 

CROWDED - There appeared to be hundreds and hundreds of people making this climb.  You will see snake-like, single-file columns of people stretching all along the mountain in practically every video.

DANGEROUS - There were some amazing shots of chimneys, vertical climbs, and narrow pathways there were just inches from a fall to ones death.

SAFETY - It occurred to me that the Chinese might have instituted many safety features.  The story of Frank and Laura dates back to 2003.  One obvious answer to the discrepancies between Frank and Laura's story versus that of the recent climbers (Hycenko, Rehage, Wirth) is that the Chinese decided to install many more safety features in recent years. 


Here is a list of my 5 favorite YouTube Huashan videos (once you visit YouTube, you will find more)

Mount Huashan Video  (Rick Archer's Note: This is the video suggested by Anthony. It is a 30 second video of the controversial gangplank with a carabiner clearly attached)

Dangerous Hike Video  (Rick Archer's Note: This is the best of the bunch.  It is a 6 minute video prepared for a TV audience.  Although it is in Japanese, you still get an excellent idea that this hike is definitely no walk in the park.)

Mount Huashan Video  (Rick Archer's Note:  44 seconds  of a climber clearly using safety devices to climb a very dangerous section).

Huashan High Video  (Rick Archer's Note: 5 1/2 minutes, this was my second favorite.)

Walking the Boardwalk - (Rick Archer's Note:
this is a 2 1/2 minute video clip featuring people walking sideways across the Boardwalk in the days BEFORE they had the harness.)


Letter Seven:  Robin Esrock
THE MODERN GONZO PICTURES, STORY, AND VIDEO
May 2008

-----Original Message-----
From:
Robin Esrock
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 5:25 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Modern Gonzo on Mount Huashan

Hi Rick

I found your site most helpful finding info on Mount Huashan.  I'm a Canadian travel writer who also hosts a travel TV series, although this was just for fun (and a column for an adventure magazine). 

Thought you might be interested in what I found. I think you'll particularly enjoy the Youtube video, shot at arms length.  

1. Read the adventure
2. See the pictures
3. Watch the Youtube Video

Bests, Robin Esrock
 

RICK ARCHER'S NOTE:  THE FOLLOWING ACCOUNT WAS WRITTEN BY ROBIN ESROCK. 
AFTER YOU FINISH THIS ACCOUNT, YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST GO SEE HIS
HUASHAN VIDEO IT IS AMAZING!

The Gonzo finds me on two narrow wooden planks, resting on iron rivets, nailed into a solid rock face on Mount Huashan.   Below me, a 1000m plummet, and the snow and ice are making it awfully slippery to hold on.    I am here because of a picture that circulates on the Internet, claiming to be, amongst other things, the world's most dangerous hike.   With harnesses in place, danger might not be the right word.   Scary comes to mind.   Mind numbingly frightening as all hell is more accurate.   Mount Huashan is a two-hour drive from Xian, China's most ancient city and the historical seat of its opulent dynasties.  

As one of five sacred mountains in the country, the rocky peaks attract hundreds, sometimes thousands, of domestic tourists every day.    They arrive in buses, purchase tickets (with optional insurance), and take the cable car towards the north peak.   From here rock-hewn trails lead to the four cardinal peaks, punctuated with temples along the way where one can make blessings, and secure engraved locks on iron chains.     For an atheist country, the Chinese have always been a superstitious lot.  

Dressed casually in sneakers, they hike up steep, stone cut steps amongst weathered peasants carrying heavy boxes of food to sell at stalls along the way.   It gets cold above 2000m, and I'm not dressed for the snow that dusts the trees, the ice that forms sharp teeth on the mouth of temple ceilings.   

There is just a smattering of westerners, amazed that such a hazardous trail could exist, never mind that it is popular with Chinese of all ages.   

Robin Esrock writes a column known as Modern Gonzo.  He is a travel writer among other things.  Robin now has a travel show on Canadian TV known as Word Travels.   Mr. Esrock was kind enough to contribute his personal experiences of Huashan to our article.

Conforming to the unwritten rule that hiking is a cordial hobby, I hear laughs and see smiles, in stark contrast to grim people I encounter in the city.  From the boys who got a kick playing with my arm hair on the plane to the couples and families on the mountain, in central China I'm a rock star, someone to be admired and photographed.    As the trail gets steeper and slippery, I take the cement fork that leads to the "Cliffside plank path" at 2160m, located between the south and east peaks.  The human traffic peters out considerably.  The wind blows with the warmth of frostbite.   Walking through a temple, I scale a rocky mound to see a majestic view, holy almost, and a narrow trail to the planks.   A knee-high chain of iron is all that stands between me and a parachute-free skydive off the edge.   My knees wobble, I say a thankful prayer my mother isn't seeing this.    A plaque in Chinese indicates that it will cost 30RMB's ($4) to continue, but a sign has boarded up the path ahead, which seems to disappear anyway.  All this way to find "the world's most dangerous hike", and now it is closed.  I laugh.  There's not much else to do.   Then,  a young guy arrives with harnesses, and casually pulls away the sign.   The adventure is on.    I pay him the cash, and he attaches me with two carabiner hooks, briefly showing me how to use the them to make my away forward.   Canyoneering in Costa Rica reminded me that one hook must always be attached while unlocking and reattaching the other.  Nice to know I'm learning when it comes to these sorts of things.  My hands are freezing, and in a touch of kindness, the guy takes off his thin white gloves and gives them to me.   He knows I'm going to need them.  I don't know what I'm in for. 

I'm alone when I set off.  For all the crowds in China, they have left me to discover this one on my own.  The narrow ledge gives way to a vertical crevice, with erratic iron bars descending to the next section, steel stitches across the cut of rock.   The wind has picked up, my hands are numb, but I unclip the latches and carefully lower myself down.   Beneath my feet is a 1000m drop.  I'm overwhelmed by one of those "what the hell are you doing you bloody idiot" moments. I get them occasionally, perk of the job.    I reach the last rung, swing to the right against the sheer rock face, and there it is - the photo. THE photo.   Thin, crackled wooden planks hug the rock, covered in ice and snow, and although it is a moment of terror, it is also a moment of triumph.  I have found the source of a rumour.  It was at a tourism schmooze talking to another travel writer that I discovered the picture might have a source in a Chinese mountain.  Cosmically, I received an invitation from the Chinese Tourism Authority to visit the country the very next day.  After some online research and helpful Google mapping, I figured I could get there on the same ticket.  Call it divine manifestation.    These things happen to me.  I call it Modern Gonzo.  AnywayŠ

From here I begin to walk along the plank, clicking in one carabiner after another, until I stop in the middle, look down, look ahead, look up.   I have another moment.  A moment of sheer awe, lost in the bosom of the nature. The surrounding mountains are enormous, sharp, and desolate.   I am just a speck surrounded on all sides by the great outdoors, and I feel very small indeed.   Ice dust falls on my head from above. It's better not to think about rocks doing the same.  So I continue walking along the planks, and it's not until 20m or so later that I hear the laughs and giggles from a group of Chinese, clearly having a whale of a time coming down the crevice.  I stop and wait to take pictures of them, to give the planks some scale, and click out at the end to find a little clearing with a small temple in a modest cave.   The only way back is along the same path, and that means walking around the others, but by now I'm used to the planks, the view, the fear, and it's easy getting past them, exchanging cameras to take some pictures, as if this were just another normal place to find yourself on a Tuesday afternoon.   Up the crevice, back on the narrow ledge, I thankfully return the gloves, and continue along the path to the other peaks.    With the safety harnesses, I would be hard pressed to call Mount Huashan the world's most dangerous hike.  Scary as hell for the novice like me, a fun day out for any climber, but probably not your cup of green tea.  True danger comes without busloads of tourists. 


Letter Eight:  Antoine Attacks!
July
2008

-----Original Message-----
From: Antoine L
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 4:58 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Huashan

Mr. Archer,

I read you webpage in May 08 while I was studying in China.  The same weekend, I got on a 14 hours train ride back to Xian, for the second time, and begin the hike of Huashan.

Of course, this trip was unwelcome by many of my peer students, however it was encouraged by my Chinese friends.  Here is the reason - my peer students had seen pictures and based their opinion of this climb only on what they had seen, exactly like you did.  In fact, a few saw your website, but did not take the time to entirely read it through.

Meanwhile, my Chinese friends were all very excited of finding out the news.

I wonder just how many people in this world canceled their plan to hike Huashan because of your website.

Your website truly makes it look like Huashan is dangerous and that those who climb it are hero.  

The truth is, this is not a volcano, or the Saharan desert. It is only a small mountain 2160 meters high. You don't need to be superman to climb it, nor do you need to be very courageous. In fact, I saw little 8 years old kid hiking it. Thus I realized that my military experience was useless, really, in this expected "lethal" challenge.

I don't need to point out to you that your article is not very academic.  Even high school students learn that they must not use websites as sources for essays and such.  However, I have read your explanation in regards to the creation of your website.  I understand your original purposes. Despite this, I don't understand why you are actually keeping the same story, which is extremely erroneous.

Huashan did make some modifications to its safety, but it doesn't justify your article, especially when you write at the top that it is updated as of May 08.

Huashan is safe, let's call it "Chinese safe" since American standards would probably deny the access to hiker for law reasons. I felt like you made it look like that Chinese didn't care about their people.  This is so judgmental and naive.

Then you attempt to argue that the government hides thing. So does the American government, and any other government around the world.

Here is what I suggest your should do. First, go out there and live it out. If huashan is a passion for you, get a flight ticket and go hike it, you won't regret it. Second, you must edit your whole website, because it is very false and misleading. Third point, and this is coming strictly from a military point of view, apologies are no used in this world. You made a big mistake when writing your article on huashan, well swallow up your pride and do something about it.

If your website is as popular as you claim it is, it is vital for the good of potential hiker that you edit the pages immediately. You could leave a historical part explaining the evolution of security on that tourist site. You can choose to ignore my advice and take this personal. Whatever your decision, remember that I am not the first one to be upset with your website. So much that even wikipedia has an paragraph written on your false claims.

I am not attacking you, but your work. That's what scholars do, except that now I really have a good reason to do it. I understand that my approach to pass my point may sound harsh to you, but you must understand the military background I come from. Anyhow, it should do you good, as I pointed the solution to remedy the issue. Think about how frustrating it is for the Chinese, who reads something degrading one of their most attracted tourist site, as well as a sacred mountain, by a foreigner who has never been there. It's like when civilians writes about a war that they have never seen, never experienced, criticizing the soldiers on the ground. I am sure you understand seeing that you come from America. If you don't, here is a hint. You wrote something based on pictures, you exaggerated the paths, the pictures you shows makes it look 3 times harder than it was, your words make the Chinese look careless, not to say that it portray their government to be corrupted. You might have canceled the plans of many hikers planning to go to China, convincing them it was truly unsafe (even before they added the harness, it was still safe if you were smart about it). You got the every peaks confused, not to mention the directions.  

Finally, you kept the erroneous article
standing as it was. In my mind, this is a fail.  And you still haven't remedy to it, instead you sadly attempted to explain yourself. I hope, on behalf of numerous potential hikers, that you will take the job to hand like a man and edit that website.


RICK ARCHER RESPONDS TO ANTOINE'S LETTER EIGHT
July 7, 2008

I did not respond directly to Antoine's letter due to his deeply insulting tone.  There is a right way to approach people and a wrong way.  Antoine needs to learn some manners.

However I do have some things to say in reference to Antoine's letter.

The debate here is a simple one:  Antoine says Huashan is safe enough for an 8 year old.  I say Huashan looks dangerous. 

Let's start with a short review of the letter.  According to Antoine, my story was not very academic, my story was extremely erroneous, I made a big mistake when writing the article, I have made false claims, I argued that the Chinese didn't care about their people, and my whole website is false and misleading.  Antoine even challenged my manhood - "take the job like a man..."

And to top it off, I got the every peaks confused, not to mention the directions.  Now this I will admit. I probably did get 'the every peaks' confused.  Does that justify Antoine's level of rudeness? 

I deeply resent any accusation that suggests I deliberately listed false claims about the 'danger' of Mt Huashan.  Anyone who has taken the time to read my Huashan Letter page to this point realizes I have published several emails contradictory to my original story. 

As to how safe or dangerous Huashan is, I invite you to draw your own conclusion.  Here are some points to consider:

1)  I have listed a report from a Chinese citizen who specifically wrote about a serious climbing disaster at Huashan back in the Eighties. You have my word I did not make this up.
2)  I have published literally dozens of pictures. I based my claim of "danger" because the pictures showed many places where the slightest mistake could mean death. I did not 'doctor' this pictures.
3)  I have listed six different videos for my readers to watch.  Not one of these videos makes Huashan look like an easy climb as Antoine suggests.  In fact, the Japanese video is tougher on Huashan than anything I have written. Does Antoine wish to argue with these videos?
4)  I have listed letters from several people who have actually climbed Huashan. Here are some quotes:

    Robin Esrock, the Canadian reporter, said, "
There is just a smattering of westerners, amazed that such a hazardous trail could exist, never mind that it is popular with Chinese of all ages."

 
  Andre Hycenko said, "
The walls of the cliff aren't exactly 90 degrees but close enough. Simply speaking, if you fell you would die."

 
  Jerrod Wirth said, "certainly it can be challenging and without doubt death could easily call upon the unfit or unwary.

I will say this - Based on the reports sent to me, I think when all is said and done, the Chinese have gone out of their way to make the Huashan climb safer.  Good for them.

That said, I think it is also pretty obvious that in the recent past, the Huashan climb was without a doubt an incredibly dangerous endeavour.  For a serious mountain climber, today Huashan is no big deal.  But for an average climber, it seems like Huashan still has more than its share of danger. 

I did not know about the mention of my Huashan story in Wikipedia until Antoine brought it to my attention.  To save you the time of going to the site, here is what it says:

Wikipedia article on Huashan:  Rumours of deadliness

Rumours of the south peak being the most dangerous hiking trail on earth seem to have risen from a story put on the web page of a person called Rick Archer with the title "The Deadly Huashan Hiking Trail"[1]. The author claims it was written by an American couple who visited the trail in 2003.

The origin of the story is not known and is assumed by many Hua Shan visitors to be purely fictional. The spread and popularity of the story was aided by many videos showing the most dangerous parts of the trail[2][3].

In 2008 the website author was faced with criticism on the authenticity of the story[4], who in turn answered: "
I wrote absolutely everything based on accounts I found on the Internet (some of which gave contradictory information)." "At the time, I never expected this particular page would be an Internet darling for thousands of Huashan fans.".

Thus, the story bears similarities to the KiddofSpeed story which rose big attention on the net until it was revealed to be fantasy, except for the fact that Rick Archer hasn't tried to benefit financially from the story on his site.

Nevertheless, it should be noted, that even though Hua Shan stairs are a popular tourist attraction and safety equipment is provided and obligatory,
the trail is still risky due to strong winds, changing weather conditions and the physical condition required to pass some parts of the trail.

So is my Huashan article being Swift Boated?  It sure seems that way.  The Wikipedia article above was written by Chong-Dae Park.  So who is Chong-Dae Park?  I have no idea.  And what is KiddofSpeed and what does it have to do with this?  I have no idea.  And who does Chong-Dae Park represent?  I have no idea.  And how do we reach Chong-Dae Park to ask him what makes him the expert?  I have no idea. 

I do know one thing - even my critic Chong-Dae Park agrees the trail is risky.  I will leave it at that.

Rick Archer
July 8, 2008
dance@ssqq.com


FURTHER THOUGHTS IN RESPONSE TO ANTOINE'S LETTER
Rick Archer, July 11, 2008

As I stated previously, I did not respond directly to Antoine's first email to me (See Letter Eight directly above).  He was so vicious in his initial email I did not see the point in wasting one single minute of my time debating his angry words.   

But I did carefully read what he had to say.  Although I deeply resented Antoine's style, I was honest enough to look beyond his harsh words and try to learn from his points.  

Stung by Antoine's bitter words, I was determined to examine my own story to make sure it was as accurate as I could humanly make it.  As Nietzsche would say, "that which does not kill us makes us stronger."

 Antoine said three things that caught my eye.

1) I don't need to point out to you that your article is not very academic.

Up to now, I wasn't aware that anyone expected my article to be academic. 

But Antoine did have a point - now that my Huashan story had become the second most-read article on the Internet, I probably did have a responsibility to get my story right.  So although I did not like his style, I agreed that if I was going to claim that Huashan was dangerous, perhaps even deadly, I should make it clear to the readers how I arrived at these conclusions.

As a result, I spent the better part of two days writing the section in yellow above where I debated with Antoine as to how safe or dangerous Huashan really is.  Then I spent a third day writing this section as well.

Antoine expected me to take his criticisms like a man.  I hope it is obvious that I have gone to considerable trouble to defend my positions carefully.

2) I am not attacking you, but your work.

That's what scholars do, except that now I really have a good reason to do it.

I understand that my approach to pass my point may sound harsh to you, but you must understand the military background I come from.

Considering Antoine's curious writing style, I was a bit taken aback to see that he considered himself a scholar.

Well, Antoine was attacking me whether he realized it or not.

As long as he stuck to comments about the story, he had every right to question certain points.  But when he said that I made false claims and that my website was false and misleading, then it became a personal attack.  I think I had every right to feel like Antoine was accusing me of being a liar.

Those are strong words.  I do not appreciate being called a liar.

3) I wonder just how many people in this world canceled their plan to hike Huashan because of your website.

How many people in this world have canceled their plans to hike Huashan based on my website? 

Now that is a good question.

It never occurred to me before that people around the world might be making their decisions to visit Huashan based on my words. 

So I thought carefully about the 'right and wrong' of my Huashan story. 

Ethically-speaking, what would anyone expect of me?

The first thing any reader would expect would be for me to tell the truth as I see it. 

My conscience is clear on that one.  I tell the truth as I see it.  And I publish un-doctored pictures to support my claims.

The second thing any reader would expect would be for me to point out the places where I am unsure of the truth.

On April 21, 2008, I wrote a carefully-worded message that clearly stated everything I say is based on second-hand information, some of which is contradictory. 

On July 7, 2008, in response to Antoine's first letter, I wrote a second warning message that I placed at the very top of this page.  In this message, I acknowledged my own short-comings.  Here is a brief excerpt:

For now, let me briefly address the concerns of my critics before continuing. I think it is important to note I have never personally climbed Huashan or had any direct experience of the place.  My critics have every right to use this fact as proof that I don't know what I am talking about.  I fully acknowledge the chance exists that perhaps my critics are correct.  Maybe the Huashan climb is indeed a lot safer than I give it credit for. 

The third thing any reader would expect would be for me to publish letters, pictures and links to videos that are relevant to my Huashan story whether they support my position or contradict it.

I think anyone who has scanned the complete Huashan page realizes I adhere to this policy.  Not only have I published letters that point out my limitations (e.g. Antoine's first letter), I publish letters from people who have actually climbed Huashan.  In addition, I provide links to places where people can obtain further information.

Finally, the fourth thing any reader would expect would be for me to make changes in my original position should I see fit.

I have made several changes to my original story. 

1 - The simple changes were to change my North Peak mistake back to the South Peak.  I originally correctly identified the 'South Peak' as the location of the dangerous hike, but changed it when Andre Hycenko's letter said "North Peak".  I think I misunderstood what Andre wrote and made a small mistake.   Since Antoine challenged me on getting my Peaks right, I switched it back.

2 - I changed the nationality of one of the videos from Chinese (incorrect) to Japanese (correct).

3 - In order to help people who were confused by Frank and Laura's story, I published letters from Andre Hycenko, Robin Esrock, and Christoph Rehage plus links to videos that make it clear that 'Changkong Zhandao', aka the Floating in Air plank walk considered to be the most dangerous part of the Huashan Climb, is OPTIONAL and NOW HAS SAFETY FEATURES as well

4 - Finally I took steps to soften my original position on Huashan by publishing statements such as these:

1- I fully acknowledge the chance exists that perhaps my critics are correct.  Maybe the Huashan climb is indeed a lot safer than I give it credit for. 

2-
I will say this - Based on the reports sent to me, I think when all is said and done, the Chinese have gone out of their way to make the Huashan climb safer.  Good for them.
 

SUMMARY

As far as I am concerned, in response to Antoine's first letter and the Wikipedia reference, I did as much as I possibly could to be fair to the Huashan situation.  Three days is a lot of time to spend on this topic, but if the World is planning to visit, I suppose I owe people the fairest story I am capable of writing.

I do not know if my actions were sufficiently scholarly or academic to satisfy Antoine, but I certainly hope so. 

Rick Archer
July 10, 2008
dance@ssqq.com

 

Letter Nine:  Antoine Returns
July
2008

-----Original Message-----
From: Antoine L
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 10:14 AM
To: Rick Archer
Subject: RE: Huashan

Good day Mr. Archer: It is unfortunate that I noticed today that you had posted my email online onto your website.

The main reason I had chosen to send you an email was especially for the reason that I did not wish my comments to be published online.

Whether or not you have judged my email to be offensive, it is not ethical of you to publish my words on to your website.

In my first email, I had no thought it necessary to include the standard warning. Please take note of it and remedy to the situation.

 

Assassin

One who kills, or attempts to kill, by surprise or secret assault; one who treacherously attempts to murder anyone who is unprepared for defense. 

Sniper


A skilled military shooter detailed to spot and pick off enemy soldiers from a concealed place, then retreats before a counterattack can be mustered.

To attack a person or a person's work with petulant or snide criticism, esp. anonymously or from a safe distance.


RICK ARCHER RESPONDS TO ANTOINE'S SECOND LETTER
July 11, 2008

If I seem angry in my response, you would be correct.  Let me explain. 

For the record, I keep up a daily international correspondence not only for this page, but several other pages on my website.  In my ten years of dealing with correspondence from people in all countries, Antoine's first letter has the distinction of being the single most hostile message I have ever received. 

Yes, I have heard from people who disagree with me, but no one writes to a complete stranger in the manner that Antoine addressed me.  I answer 15,000 emails a year, but I can only think of one other letter even remotely as negative as Antoine's first letter.

And what was Antoine so upset about?  It wasn't like I was claiming the Holocaust didn't exist. Antoine was arguing over a hiking trail located on a remote mountain 7,000 miles away.   Was it really worth this kind of fuss?

That said, I have never received a letter as strange as Antoine's second letter.  His 'you have no right to publish my letters' email was downright bizarre.  Everyone should know by now if you put something out in cyberspace, it may just come back to haunt you.

It was Antoine's complete U-Turn that made his second email so shocking.  In like a lion, out like a lamb.  Stand up and deliver, but now I quiver.

Just days after bravely calling me out for my "false and misleading claims", Antoine wanted his powerful pro-Huashan message removed from my web site. 

Furthermore, using his scholarly, highly academic approach, Antoine pointed out "
you kept the erroneous article standing as it was.  In my mind, this is a fail.  And you still haven't remedy to it"

Antoine even thought goading me a little might make me see the error of my ways. "You made a big mistake when writing your article on huashan, well swallow up your pride and do something about it."

Indeed, for someone who was so sure of himself that he challenged me to
"take the job to hand like a man", Antoine seemed to lack the determination to continue to make his point.

Gee, if someone really believed in what they wrote, wouldn't most people be thrilled to have their nemesis give them a forum to present their ideas?  Wouldn't you expect Antoine to show some appreciation that I accepted his challenge to debate the issue?

He called me out and I answered.  I updated my entire article.  It took some serious time and effort on my part, but I responded to every point he raised.  I even softened some of my original comments. Aren't people usually happy to get what they asked for?   Well, not Antoine.

Now that I had invested 20 hours of my time spread over three days to respond to his negative allegations, Antoine suddenly got cold feet. He turned around and completely abandoned the scholarly debate he had dared me to participate in.

For the record, I have no idea who this man is, where he lives or what started him on his "Free Huashan" tangent to begin with. 

But considering the passion of his crusade to defend the honor of Huashan against my uninformed prejudice, I would have expected him to at least continue the argument a little longer, yes?  Most fights aren't won in the first skirmish.

Guess not.  Antoine did a Heckle And Hyde routine.  Once Antoine realized I was willing to fight back, Sniper Antoine turned into Mr. Hit and Run. 

It's like they say in deer hunting... it isn't as much fun when the deer start shooting back.

Antoine was pretty outspoken in his first letter.  For someone this aggressive, you wouldn't expect him to pack his bags and hit the Retreat Button at the first sign of resistance.  Indeed, for someone so proud of his vaunted military background (mentioned twice), he sure gave up easy. 

If I didn't know any better, I would guess that Antoine was disillusioned to discover I was more than willing to accept his offer to debate the issue.  That is when he realized it is a lot easier to dish it out than to take it back.  So Antoine didn't want to play anymore.  He wanted to take his emails and go home.

From Antoine's Second Email:

"The main reason I had chosen to send you an email was especially for the reason that I did not wish my comments to be published online.
"

Oh, really?

Funny, I read his first email pretty carefully.  I must have missed that statement!  

I think Antoine was so busy insulting me and pointing out all my mistakes, he forgot to tell me that he wanted me to take his abuse laying down.  Hey, Rick, let's keep my insults between the two of us! 

So what exactly do you suppose Antoine L is worried about?

I will tell you what Antoine is worried about - he is afraid the entire planet is going to see what an idiot he is.

Case in point.  Antoine is the only guy on Earth who can read an entire page of published emails - Andre Hycenko, Jarrod Wirth, Robin Esrock, Christopher Rehage, etc, et al, ad infinitum, ad nauseam - and not comprehend that I publish emails sent to me.  A little slow on the uptake, yes?

Then Antoine has the nerve to come whining to me with a statement as pathetic as this.

"In my first email, I had no thought it necessary to include the standard warning. Please take note of it and remedy to the situation."

Bad news, Antoine, your emails will remain posted right here along with any other incoherent message you care to send me.

Maybe in your next email you could cite a legal case, Mothra v. Godzilla or something like that, which would help me understand what entitles you to shoot your big mouth off and not have to face the consequences.

In the meantime, I suppose you will stay bitter towards me for not kowtowing to your whims.  Be that as it may, I have some news for you.

You should realize if I had published your full name (as I had every legal right to do), this story would put a permanent Google stain on your reputation so deep it would follow you wherever you went for the rest of your life. 

So be grateful I showed mercy on you and kept you anonymous.  Hopefully you weren't dumb enough to tell all your cyber friends about the tough letter you sent to the guy who wrote the story about Huashan.  But that's your problem.

Now tell your handler to take your keyboard away before you go and write something even more stupid than you already have.
 

Letter Ten: Commentary on Antoine's Accusations

 -----Original Message-----
From: J Mei
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 8:31 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: More on Huashan

Just thought this might help with the arguments your article has attracted -- the trail, and the plank road in particular, was given a major refurbishing by local tourism authorities in fall, 2005.

That's also when all the safety harnesses were brought in.  So you are quite right in guessing that conditions have changed. I imagine recent visitors may be quite unaware of how different things were before 2005.  The climb was very dangerous.

It's their ignorance, not your disinformation!


Letter Eleven: The Mount Huashan Climb is difficult, but not deadly.

(Rick Archer's Note:  This 4- page letter from Michael Sanderson is the best eyewitness account yet. 

Mr. Sanderson sent it to me with the express purpose of clearing up inaccuracies and giving a more accurate assessment of the risk involved in the climb. 

We are all in his debt for taking the time to write such a detailed letter.)


 -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Sanderson
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 10:35 AM
Subject: my trip to Huashan

Dear Mr. Archer,

First, I want to say how much I enjoy your site, and how much I appreciate that it exists. Six months ago, I read its stories and saw the pictures while planning a trip with my family. (I live in Guangdong Province in the south of China, and am teaching English, now for a hotel.) If I hadn't seen your site, I surely would not have been inspired to climb the mountain.

Reminiscing about my trip and visiting your site again, I'm sorry to see that there has been controversy surrounding it. I don't claim to be a Huashan expert, but I hope I can add some clarity to a few points based on my recent experience. I'm also including some photos I took and explanations of what's in them. 

My pictures of the Huashan climb can be seen on my web site.

As for my opinion about the controversy, that I will save for the end.

I cannot speak to what the mountain looked like before the refurbishment in 2005. I should also note that due to limited time, I took the cable car halfway up. And while the couple's account was gripping and inspired me to climb the mountain, for a few reasons I don't think the account could have happened like they said. But that's not why I'm writing. I want to share my experience climbing the amount, provide some information and pictures, and encourage other people to do so if they have the opportunity. My apologies if you already are clear on a lot of this.

Because the mountain is approached from the north, the north-south orientation of the mountain is continually confusing--it seems that everyone has their peaks confused. On all good guide maps, up=south. So whether you start climbing from the ground or take the cable car, you first reach the North Peak area. This is the lowest peak. The assents to the North Peak go from ground level. One goes under the cable car route and is insanely steep. The other is apparently plenty arduous and dramatic itself, but I can't speak to that from experience.

From the North Peak area, there is only one steep, narrow route to the rest of the mountain. This is through the Heavenly Steps/Sun and Moon Cliff area. The Heavenly Steps area and the Sun and Moon Cliff area do contain some areas where steps are cut so vertically as to almost be ladders; some other places are like this as well. These areas, however, are not over cliffs. so while someone could easily slip, they would be hurt, but not killed. This continues to the Black Dragon ridge, as you describe. The Black Dragon Ridge is about one-meter wide, with sharp cliffs on both sides, and not a curve or break to stop a fall backwards. There are chain handrails along both sides, and a steady stream of people goes up and down both ways.

After that, you reach an often-overlooked area around the so-called Center or Middle Peak. This area is in fact relatively flat, and nicely forested. It lies between the East, South, and West peaks. There aren't as many people around, and stone paths go off in different directions. As you are already very high, going to the different areas requires as much walking as climbing steps. For reasons of time, I didn't go to to the East or West peaks, but towards the south edge of the mountain. Here is the highest point, the South Peak.

I'm sorry to report that the final assent to the South Peak is not particularly treacherous. The stone steps are not as steep or exposed as the Black Dragon Ridge, and the ground is level enough for the forest to continue right up to the top. There are a few steep places, but it's nothing compared to